Monday, April 27, 2009

What temperatures are required to sucessfully use herbicides to kill grass and broadleaf weeds?

I am in Tennessee and I had a guy from a company called Chemlawn today tell me that they were spraying for broadleaf weeds as well as applying pre-emergent and fertilizer to their customer's lawns.





I was surprised especially considering that it is not even yet middle February and they are already using post emergent herbicides on the lawn.





Is it really possible to do this when the temperatures are still getting close to freezing at night?








Thanks for your answers!

What temperatures are required to sucessfully use herbicides to kill grass and broadleaf weeds?
The pre-emergent is for crabgrass. What they do is two half rate applications, so it has a longer residual effect. At the same time they are putting out post emergent for broadleaf weeds, because henbit and other weeds will be popping up after all the rain you have had. They will put out the next application in about 6 or 7 weeks.





The fertilizer is potassium for root development. During the cooler part of the season that is what you work on. Develop a healthy root system and the top growth will show it.





Chemlawn is a major company (Fortune 500) and would not be doing something to lawns they shouldn't be doing. Can you imagine they would put out these products on a few thousand lawns, just to have to replace the lawns?





I am from the Birmingham area. They know what they are doing. :)





One of the first things you will think is they have 'killed your grass' because weeds will be dying and you will think it is grass. then as spring rolls around your real grass will become thicker and greener and you will see the difference. One little know fact is that weeds grow faster than grass.





Hope this helps. :)
Reply:Rule is /Do all your killing at Spring time/when the weeds are young/no prob,rest O Season.
Reply:I just applied a weed killer that said the ideal temperature and conditions is greater than 60 degrees F and sunny. It's been cool around here (50+ during the day and low 40s at night) and it took about a week for the weed killer to take effect. I don't know if that was a temperature thing or what. Usually, it takes effect within 24 hours.





It's my experience that broadleaf weed killers for lawns don't immediately kill the weeds. It just stops them from growing. They then turn red and eventually die a few weeks later.





I would think a pre-emergent is fine any time, as long as the ground isn't frozen. You're essentially just sterilizing the seeds.
Reply:That surprises me too. Broadleaf herbicides work best when the plant is actively growing.





the preemergent might okay in your area right now. Around here (mid ohio) we recommend mid-March. You want it present BEFORE the seeds germinate, and if your temps are warming up now - you could have weed seeds germinating in the next few weeks.


What are the best ways to get rid of broadleaf and grassy weeds in lawn?

My lawn is about 1/5 weeds. And I want to make it a perfect lawn. This spring I am going to put down pre-emergent, but I know that there will still be ones that will come up. As well as the ones already germinated. So I have heard that it is good to fertilize reguraly your lawn and to spray a post emergent like 24d or MSMA on your lawn to kill clover and other broadleaf weeds as well as any crabgrass or grassy weeds that come up in your lawn when the weather is mild , but not too hot (so it wont damage your grass). I also plan to aerate and seed my lawn in the fall.


Is this the only and best way to renovate my lawn to perfect state? how long will it take?

What are the best ways to get rid of broadleaf and grassy weeds in lawn?
long job--------take danedelions %26amp; daises out one by one with a penknife as the roots are very long,all other weeds can be sprayed.good luck
Reply:In my experience, you need to do 2 things. 1. every fall or spring, overseed the lawn with grass seed. This is because about 15% of your grass will die out every year (which is one reason you get more weeds, to fill the spaces). Be sure to water every couple of days till the seeds sprout (about 1 month). 2. The granular weed control is difficult to use without killing more grass and I don't like it. I prefer using the liquid weed killers, the ones you spray using a special bottle on your hose. Do the weed-killing gradually, once every 2 to 4 weeks. It takes longer this way but you are less likely to kill grass in the process. (Don't use weed killers for at least 2 months after applying grass seed or you will kill the new grass.) Done this way, you can greatly improve the lawn within 2 years. You can kill persistent weeds by spot applications of liquid weed killer.


Is early fall a good time to spray for broadleaf weeds?

I have heard that since it has been so dry and hot this summer where I am at in Tennessee that it is better to not spray for broadleaf weeds now, as there would be much results.





I heard that the reason for this was because the weeds would not have much sap in them , since it was so dry and that they would not really accept the herbicide spray.





They said May or June would have been better for me here in Tennessee.

Is early fall a good time to spray for broadleaf weeds?
Yes, early fall is a very good time to control weeds. I don't know if you are referring to broadleaf in your lawn or is it in a nonformal area? If it is your lawn area and you have been irrigating somewhat, and if the weeds are even a little bit green still, you can get control. The reason why you want to control weeds in the fall, is so that you won't have a larger problem with them in the spring. Many weeds are perennial and will not die off in winter. They will just lay dormant, like the grass until the weather begins to warm up. On top of the perennials taking off again, you will also have to battle the annual weeds that germinate throughout spring and early summer. So, if you don't get them under control now, you will have twice the problem in April. You may not get as fast of a kill if they are somewhat brown, but if there is just a hint of green left, you can kill them rather easily. Just because it has been hot, has no effect on the ability of an herbicide to do its job. They work on contact as well as systemically, to quickly start breaking down the weeds cell structure, and inhibit it from absorbing moisture and its nutrient conversion process. Many times I have treated areas that where virtually brown and dead, with the weeds only having a little bit of green showing. All of the vegetation around the weeds was dead and dried up from lack of water, and I still got a 100% kill rate. Mix the herbicide according to the label directions and do not deter from this information and you will get good control, even at this time of year.





**Billy Ray**
Reply:Eh? Drought conditions would be excellent to put on "water" on the plants. They are so thirsty. They cannot tell the water is "spiked". Spraying weeds in the fall does not make alot of sense as plants have finished their yearly cycle and are dying when it freezes and snows. Spraying is more a spring thing to early summer. If you haven't got the weeds under control by that time.......there is always the next year.
Reply:if you think so than go right ahead
Reply:I can't agree with that. I live in NC and we are having a severe drought. But the weeds seem to flourish! I sprayed roundup on the dandilions that are sprouting up all over and the sand spurs, they are now gone.


What temperatures are okay for use of broadleaf weedspray ??

The temperatures here in Tennessee this week are suppose to be upper 80's for highs and lower 60's for lows at night








is this still a good time to spray for broadleaf weeds with quick results?


(it has been very dry too this past summer)

What temperatures are okay for use of broadleaf weedspray ??
If the weeds are actively growing, it's a good time to spray. If temperature range is not given on the label, call the 800 number for the manufacturer and ask... different formulations, different temperatures. Generally 70-mid 80s is a common range.





Read and follow all label directions. Do not mix stronger than directed, as your kill rate may actually be lessened if the tissues simply "burn" instead of translocate the material.





Don't spray annual weeds, t's a waste of time and money.
Reply:Ron,


If you have the bottle, which you should because keeping insecticide in unsafe bottles kills more kids and pets than most people can imagine, pick up the bottle and read all of the writing. If the directions on the bottle aren't legible the product may be too old to use and should be disposed of properly. Call your local noxious weed extension for information of safe disposal.


Somewhere on that bottle the weather and temps should be listed as optimum times and mixtures for use of the product.
Reply:The weeds have to be activly growing, so the tempriture is not that important

domain names

By mistake I just put down the Broadleaf fertilizer on my lawn about 2 weeks ago. That should of been done in?

june, and I should have put the crabgrass stuff down instead. My question is, is it too late to put the crabgrass and weed stuff down, or would it overfertilize and burn my lawn? Or should I just wait a few weeks for the broadleaf to absorb? I am worried I will get much crabgrass.

By mistake I just put down the Broadleaf fertilizer on my lawn about 2 weeks ago. That should of been done in?
It depends on where you are located. Crabgrass seeds need a soil temperature of 55 - 60 degrees to germinate. I'm located in Iowa(zone 4.5), which translates to a May application. As long as you are a month or so away from your fertilizer plus broadleaf application, you'll be OK to apply the fertilizer plus crabgrass stuff.





You might want to check the ultra scientific website which I have included, if you want to get scientific about it.
Reply:Don't put anymore fertilizer down as you will hurt the grass with over fertilizing. Just bite the bullet and wait for next year to put the Crabgrass preventer down. You can put your weed preventer down as your next application in a few months.


Asphalt Driveway Installation -- Should they Kill GRASS/Broadleaf before Asphalting?

Curious...when asphalt contractors come in to put down a driveway must they kill the green grassy/broadleaf plant life before asphalting the area....because if they dont it will just weaken the asphalt overtime?





Or is this optional?

Asphalt Driveway Installation -- Should they Kill GRASS/Broadleaf before Asphalting?
I am a 17 year civil engineer with many miles of street design and construction.


1. Spray ALL weeds with a heavy duty weed killer 4 days prior to paving.


2. If rain withn 48 hours of weed killer application, reapply.


3. Gravel is not always necessary if AC is thick enough.


A driveway needs only a 4" thich asphalt over compacted dirt.


4. Make sure contractor levels and compacts the surface thourougly.


5. Spray a layer of tack coat, this makes the AC stick much better thna without.


6. Roll well after applying AC.
Reply:I think most asphalt pavers for driveways are liars. All the ones that come by my house say" we have some left over from a big job %26amp; will make a deal".


I've seen some of their work. They pave over anything that won't move out of the way.
Reply:they have to dig a foundation of some kind or scrape it, and that removes any plant life and seeds...
Reply:One would hope that any decent contractor would grade the area, probably below ground level; add crushed lime rock, or other appropriate base, then blacktop.





It's doubtful they would do any other form of foliage barrier.





It might also depend, in part; on your ability to choose the height above ground level you want the driveway to be.





Steven Wolf
Reply:If they dont kill the broadleaf stuff it will just grow back up thru the asphalt over time,
Reply:the ones i know use a grass killer its called disel fuel.then they pave over a pac material.
Reply:no, the area must be properly prepped with a layer of gravel mix first..
Reply:no the heat alone will do this


Which produces more oxygen per year: broadleaf or conifer trees?

To increase oxygen production, should we plant deciduous trees or evergreens? The broadleaf seems to have more surface, but their active life is short. We live in the Rockies at 7800 feet.

Which produces more oxygen per year: broadleaf or conifer trees?
I would go with the evergreens..or you could get the best of both worlds and go with the one and only decidious conifer..The Dawn Redwood.


When do you put down broadleaf weed control and grass seed in Region 5?

Someone told me to spread the broadleaf weed control and grass seed together whenever the forsynthia blooms. Does this sound correct? We're in Region 5, in Western PA. Thank you!

When do you put down broadleaf weed control and grass seed in Region 5?
Grass seed is best planted in mid-August to mid-September in your area, but Spring is the second best time to plant it. The seed will germinate when the constant soil temperature reaches around 60-degrees. Rather than stick a thermometer in the soil and monitor the temperature, just wait 'til the nighttime temps are in the 50's. That'll be about the right time to seed. Any sooner and the seed will just lay there to be blown away by wind and eaten by birds.


Forget the dry weed control or "weed %26amp; feed" products, unless you have more weeds than grass. It's more effective to use a liquid concentrate broadleaf killer, such as Ortho Weed-B-Gon or Spectracide and spray each weed with a pump-up type sprayer.
Reply:Together?? Well, OK, you can try that. Forsythia bloom is about right for the weed control for broadleaf weeds. It shouldn't affect the grass germination much at all. However, be careful, if you are going for crabgrass control, please no grass seed. The herbicide won't be able to decern between grass seed and crabgrass seed, stopping both.
Reply:Oh boy, check with your county agent or a good garden center. The guy on the radio here in MD says to plant grass seed in the fall--mid August through September, actually. You put down crab grass preventer when the forsythia blooms. You can fertilize your lawn with an organic fertilizer almost any time now, if it isn't frozen or snow covered, especially if you haven't fertilized it for awhile. The radio guy says you should use a liquid weed killer as the weeds appear, but not before the fertilizer. The fertilizer feeds them, too, and the new growth accepts the weed killer better and is more effective.

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How to protect lawn from Broadleaf Weeds before they appear in Spring?

Next spring i want to get ahead of the battle against broadleaf weeds (e.g. Dandelions and Thistle) and put something on my lawn before they start sprouting. I know to put a Fertilizer with Pre-Emergent but from what i understand pre-emergent is good at controlling Crabgrass and other leafy weeds but from what i have read using a mix that controls dandelions (and other leafy weeds) are only effective AFTER they have sprouted so as to stick to their leaves (when wet). Can i use a Weed and Feed on my lawn before these broadleaf weeds start to appear so as to protect against them ever appearing?

How to protect lawn from Broadleaf Weeds before they appear in Spring?
Yes, the best thing to use is Scotts Turfbuilder plus halts.





A pre-emergent gets the weeds BEFORE. Scotts works well on all types of weeds.


Do broadleaf or coniferous trees absorb more CO2 in a year?

Or to generalize better, does an average acre of broadleaf forest absorb more co2 in an average year than an acre of coniferous (needle-producing) forest?





A single leaf has more surface area than a single needle, of course, but conifers produce huge numbers of needles and they are able to photosynthesize earlier in spring and later in autumn than broadleaf trees.





I know that many organizations that plant trees usually concentrate on conifer seedlings, because they grow quickly and are low-maintenance --- but are they as useful in extracting CO2 from the atmosphere? This is what I'm trying to determine.

Do broadleaf or coniferous trees absorb more CO2 in a year?
The following link will help you in your research.





http://www.cfr.washington.edu/Classes.es...





http://users.rcn.com/jkimball.ma.ultrane...





A quote from a net source =





Moran, E.Fsays in his work titled "Deforestation and Land Use in the Brazilian Amazon", Human Ecology, Vol 21, No. 1, 1993 “It took more than 15 years for the "lungs of the world" myth to be corrected. Rain forests contribute little net oxygen additions to the atmosphere through photosynthesis.”
Reply:Needle leaves absorb more CO2 in a year. The surface area of all needles of a pine tree is about twight the size of that of a comparable beechs leaves f.e.


And coniferous trees are evergreen and photosynthesize in winter too.


And they grow more quickly ( large trees %26gt;more photosynthesis )


Broadleaf trees?

Broadleaf trees are typically found in:


1 the emergent tier of the forest


2 the shrub layer of the forest


3 the main canopy tier of the forest


4 none of these options

Broadleaf trees?
3
Reply:3
Reply:3 is the logical answer, although It can be all three, depends on regional species and stage of forest.