poa anna, and broadleafs in dormant bermuda grass
What can i use this time of year to kill weeds?
fire
Reply:urinate on them , works every time!
Friday, November 13, 2009
Anyone know where I can find info on indiginous plants of the Yukatan?
Need info on plants that have their origins in that area. Especially any broadleafs and canes.
Anyone know where I can find info on indiginous plants of the Yukatan?
If you speak Spanish, a good resource in the UNAM, Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico, that has various botanical texts that are authorative and up-to-date. If it is a particular plant, you are looking for you will probaly have better luck doing an internet search with a botanical encyclopedia online. Good luck!
gordon
Anyone know where I can find info on indiginous plants of the Yukatan?
If you speak Spanish, a good resource in the UNAM, Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico, that has various botanical texts that are authorative and up-to-date. If it is a particular plant, you are looking for you will probaly have better luck doing an internet search with a botanical encyclopedia online. Good luck!
gordon
What to spray my yard with?
I re-seeded Kyentucky Fescue last fall and have a fair stand, however, mouse ear chick weed and other broadleafs are really thick. I wanted to spray for the chickweed and the broadleafs. I read on the lable that 24d was a poor choice to kill chickweed and also that I couldnt overseed for a yr following treatment. I fear large areas will need to be seeded when the bradleafs die. So what can I spray with to get these weeds and still overseed in 2 weeks?
What to spray my yard with?
I've read all the answers that other people have given you, some are fair. Here's my advice, take it or leave it. Granular weed and feed (preferably Scots) will be your best bet. Weed and feed contains atrazine which will work if applied and watered in properly. Atrazine can only be applied when afternoon temps are no higher than 80-85 degrees. You must water the application in with no less than equal to 1/4 inch of rain. Water it in for 2 days in a row(twice daily). If you put it down without watering it in, your lawn itself could be damaged. Atrazine kills and will prevent weeds (for 4-6 weeks) from growing in your lawn. I'm very big on promoting the old school method of pulling weeds. The more you pull the less you have! Take a knife a get them from the roots up.
Reply:You shouldn't spray anything! It is very bad for the enviroment! It goes into the rivers and the fish die and then it comes around back to you when you eat the fish or drink water.
Reply:you can get a fertilizer called weed and feed it works pretty good
Reply:Roundup may be your answer. Check it out
Reply:Your garden store can recommend the correct "weed and feed" product for your area. If you have a really bad spot it might be worth using Round-up which kills most everything. Then reseed that area.
Reply:When we moved here 2 years ago all we had was weeds for a lawn. (This used to be a field) I did some grass seed last year which took off pretty well. Then I got some stuff at Lowes called Weed and Feed. It is supposed to kill many different types of weeds and feed your grass so that it can choke out future weeds from growing. Now my yard is almost all grass and very little weeds. Good luck. Oh, and it's not a spray it is granules.
What to spray my yard with?
I've read all the answers that other people have given you, some are fair. Here's my advice, take it or leave it. Granular weed and feed (preferably Scots) will be your best bet. Weed and feed contains atrazine which will work if applied and watered in properly. Atrazine can only be applied when afternoon temps are no higher than 80-85 degrees. You must water the application in with no less than equal to 1/4 inch of rain. Water it in for 2 days in a row(twice daily). If you put it down without watering it in, your lawn itself could be damaged. Atrazine kills and will prevent weeds (for 4-6 weeks) from growing in your lawn. I'm very big on promoting the old school method of pulling weeds. The more you pull the less you have! Take a knife a get them from the roots up.
Reply:You shouldn't spray anything! It is very bad for the enviroment! It goes into the rivers and the fish die and then it comes around back to you when you eat the fish or drink water.
Reply:you can get a fertilizer called weed and feed it works pretty good
Reply:Roundup may be your answer. Check it out
Reply:Your garden store can recommend the correct "weed and feed" product for your area. If you have a really bad spot it might be worth using Round-up which kills most everything. Then reseed that area.
Reply:When we moved here 2 years ago all we had was weeds for a lawn. (This used to be a field) I did some grass seed last year which took off pretty well. Then I got some stuff at Lowes called Weed and Feed. It is supposed to kill many different types of weeds and feed your grass so that it can choke out future weeds from growing. Now my yard is almost all grass and very little weeds. Good luck. Oh, and it's not a spray it is granules.
How does fertilization of the lawn cooperate with appication of herbicide for weeds?
I understand that you dont want to overseed the lawn when you are trying to control weeds through herbicides , so since there isnt much of a window for doing this (in between pre-emergen in early Spring and Post Emergent in late Spring) , is it a good idea to apply fertilizer to the lawn?
and if so, how does this help or not help in killing the weeds (broadleaf or grassy) ???
How does fertilization of the lawn cooperate with appication of herbicide for weeds?
Feeding the lawn whilst trying to kill off broadleaf weeds will not help or hinder with killing them.
A 13.13.13. is simply a balanced feed, you could also use one with a higher nitrogen content.
The only minor benefit you would get is that the grass would grow quicker to colonise the spaces left by the dead weeds.
I am assuming that you talking about an established lawn where you are reseeding patches.
and if so, how does this help or not help in killing the weeds (broadleaf or grassy) ???
How does fertilization of the lawn cooperate with appication of herbicide for weeds?
Feeding the lawn whilst trying to kill off broadleaf weeds will not help or hinder with killing them.
A 13.13.13. is simply a balanced feed, you could also use one with a higher nitrogen content.
The only minor benefit you would get is that the grass would grow quicker to colonise the spaces left by the dead weeds.
I am assuming that you talking about an established lawn where you are reseeding patches.
Ughhh i hate bio?
You are in an area with large trees that loose their leaves in the winter, this is mostly likely?
A. Temperate broadleaf forest
B. Taiga
C. Tundra
D. Either A or C
E. None of the above
Ughhh i hate bio?
It is a temperate broadleaf forest. Taiga is mostly evergreen, and the tundra doesn't have any trees.
Reply:Go to http://dictionary.reference.com and look up what the words mean, and see which sounds like large trees that loose their leaves in winter. If you don't listen during the lesson, you will have to do extra work to understand later. Why don't you look through your text book?
Reply:hehe I love bio
A. Temperate broadleaf forest
B. Taiga
C. Tundra
D. Either A or C
E. None of the above
Ughhh i hate bio?
It is a temperate broadleaf forest. Taiga is mostly evergreen, and the tundra doesn't have any trees.
Reply:Go to http://dictionary.reference.com and look up what the words mean, and see which sounds like large trees that loose their leaves in winter. If you don't listen during the lesson, you will have to do extra work to understand later. Why don't you look through your text book?
Reply:hehe I love bio
I need Betta advice on plants, snails, and cycling....?
I set up a 2.5 gallon tank 4-5 days ago with dechlorinated tap water %26amp; put in some fish food to start the cycle. Yesterday I picked out my betta. I took him home, rinsed the gravel, %26amp; put it in with a small decoration %26amp; 2 small potted plants (one is a broadleaf anubias, the other didn't have a label). I floated his cup for about 10 minutes then put him in. He seems happy but no bubbles; he stays at the surface of the water (no gasping though). I fed him a few dried bloodworms this morning which he gobbled up. The water is still a little cloudy from cycling.
1. Is the setup OK? Why does he stay at the top? There's no filter or heater but the temp is 74 and I plan to do partial water changes.
3. If I get a tiny snail will my fish eat it in this small tank? Will the snail eat my plants?
4. Can I leave the plants potted?
5. Is it bad to only feed bloodworms?
6. Did I wait long enough before putting him in?
7. I'm nervous that when I change the water he will try to jump out.
I need Betta advice on plants, snails, and cycling....?
Bettas are air-breathers, and don't need deep water. They do just fine in a large vase (about 1 1/2 gallons).
Bettas are carnivores. and don't eat plants. Plants do not clean the water. Aside from appearance, they only provide cover for the fish. Since bettas spend most of their time at the top of the tank, plants at the bottom do nothing. I prefer pothos plants, a type of ivy that roots easily in water. I either clip long segments from existing plants, or purchase new ones, and remove/rinse all of the dirt off of the roots. Betta's love hanging out in the roots. The plants hang easily, and get their food from the water.
I had many bettas, all in huge vases, with colored glass "rocks". Once every week I set up new vases, added clorine eliminator, and allowed the water to reach room temp before switching the fish.
I found that using a fish net and big collander (spaghetti strainer), worked best. After removing the plants, I slowly pour the water out of the tank, through the net and into the collander. After the fish is in the net - I put him in the new vase.
As for food, get Betta pellets - available at any pet store or discounter that sells fish. Blood worms are fine for a treat, but not for long-term maintenance
Not all bettas will make bubble nests, especially if there are no females, or other males within sight. They tend to be more active if they have other bettas nearby.
Bettas don't live in lakes or ponds. They live in muddy rice patties, often subjected to drought. They can survive in a tiny puddle of mud. They really do not need, or enjoy regular fish tanks.
And yes, bettas can jump out of tanks. Just make sure the water level is at least 2" below the top of the tank.
If you should ever find your fish out of the tank - do not throw him away. Even after being completely dried out, they can still be alive, and recover. I had one who lived for years after his suicide attempt.
Good luck to you!
Reply:Your betta is stressed. It takes a little bit for bettas to get used to their new environment. keep his tank clean and feed him regularly. remove any uneaten food after 5 minutes. You did not cycle the tank in less than a week, since the tank is not cycled you will need to make sure you have a good liquid (dont get the strips, they are useless) test kit and keep an eye on ammonia (should be zero), nitrite (should be zero), and nitrate (try to keep under 20) levels. You can do that with frequent water changes. Keep his temp at 78 degrees. A snail will add extra waste to the tank that isn't needed. Snails can eat plants (depends on the type of snail). Some bettas will eat snails, some don't..just depends on the betta. Freeze dried bloodworms are fine fed as a snack, but should not be used as the staple food in your betta's diet.
Hope that answers all your questions, if not you can check out the website in my profile for more betta info.
Reply:well..
1) in my opinion, i think he stays at the top waiting for food. my betta swims up to the top every time it sees me! you should put something in the tank to occupy him. A little hiding place, maybe?
2) I think it will be best not to get a snail because betta are independant, proud creatures and a snail may cause him to get stressed since he may think the snail is stealing his habitat.
3)as long as the plants arent in soil (because soil will cause the water to get dirtier.)
4)Bloodworms should be an occasional treat only, not the regular food. Buy regular betta food (the most simple ones are spherical brown grains) and give bloodworms as an additional treat.
5)Yes. I put mine in after about three minutes. You have to wait for the water to settle into room temperature or the betta will get a shock but what you did sounds fine.
6)That is possible although mine has never jumped out. But if you dont want to risk it, prop up a mirror against to pot you're going to keep him in while you change the water and your betta will be too busy just staring at the mirror thinking its another betta. (and dont worry when it looks like his face poofs up. he's just trying to frighten the betta in the mirror away.
Good Luck!
Reply:You should get him some Betta pellets just for some variation. Depending on the type of snail, it may be fine, and it may be a horrible idea. Mystery Snails are fairly large, won't eat plants, and will not breed like Guppies. All the snails that you find on live plants are no good. Before you know it, you'll have hundreds of them crawling through your tank. The Betta will not eat snails. The reason he stays at the top is because Bettas breath air (they don't use their gills to extract oxygen from the water). You will soon see him "gasping" for air, but that is just breathing. If you want, you can leave the plants potted (I don't but it really doesn't matter). As long as the temperature in the cup was similar to the temperature in the tank, it is fine. Email me if you have any questions...
Nosoop4u
Reply:1.) You have too many decorations in your 2.5 gallon tank. Keep only a minimum of one or two live plants. I would recommend two Micro Swords. Another suggestion would be one or two silk plants. Never get platic plants. They can tear the Betta's fins. Your Betta stays at the top because it perfers mid-top tank levels when inside an aquarium.
2.) Your 2.5 gallon tank should already have a built-in filtration unit already. As for a heater, I would recommend a Mini Heater.
3.) Get a Mystery Snail. You do not have to worry about the Betta bothering it. If you get live plants, chances are the snail will eat your plants. Go with artificial silk plants to keep this from happening.
4.) That is an option. Your plants will continue to grow either way.
5.) Bettas eat pellets that are made for them. Feed it between 6 to 8 pellets twice a day. The bloodworms are actually a treat for the Betta.
6.) Actually you were supposed to wait 15 minutes but he did turn out fine obviously.
7.) Get a small net so that next time you have to do a water change, you won't have to worry about him jumping out.
Hope all this helps.
hiking boots reviews
1. Is the setup OK? Why does he stay at the top? There's no filter or heater but the temp is 74 and I plan to do partial water changes.
3. If I get a tiny snail will my fish eat it in this small tank? Will the snail eat my plants?
4. Can I leave the plants potted?
5. Is it bad to only feed bloodworms?
6. Did I wait long enough before putting him in?
7. I'm nervous that when I change the water he will try to jump out.
I need Betta advice on plants, snails, and cycling....?
Bettas are air-breathers, and don't need deep water. They do just fine in a large vase (about 1 1/2 gallons).
Bettas are carnivores. and don't eat plants. Plants do not clean the water. Aside from appearance, they only provide cover for the fish. Since bettas spend most of their time at the top of the tank, plants at the bottom do nothing. I prefer pothos plants, a type of ivy that roots easily in water. I either clip long segments from existing plants, or purchase new ones, and remove/rinse all of the dirt off of the roots. Betta's love hanging out in the roots. The plants hang easily, and get their food from the water.
I had many bettas, all in huge vases, with colored glass "rocks". Once every week I set up new vases, added clorine eliminator, and allowed the water to reach room temp before switching the fish.
I found that using a fish net and big collander (spaghetti strainer), worked best. After removing the plants, I slowly pour the water out of the tank, through the net and into the collander. After the fish is in the net - I put him in the new vase.
As for food, get Betta pellets - available at any pet store or discounter that sells fish. Blood worms are fine for a treat, but not for long-term maintenance
Not all bettas will make bubble nests, especially if there are no females, or other males within sight. They tend to be more active if they have other bettas nearby.
Bettas don't live in lakes or ponds. They live in muddy rice patties, often subjected to drought. They can survive in a tiny puddle of mud. They really do not need, or enjoy regular fish tanks.
And yes, bettas can jump out of tanks. Just make sure the water level is at least 2" below the top of the tank.
If you should ever find your fish out of the tank - do not throw him away. Even after being completely dried out, they can still be alive, and recover. I had one who lived for years after his suicide attempt.
Good luck to you!
Reply:Your betta is stressed. It takes a little bit for bettas to get used to their new environment. keep his tank clean and feed him regularly. remove any uneaten food after 5 minutes. You did not cycle the tank in less than a week, since the tank is not cycled you will need to make sure you have a good liquid (dont get the strips, they are useless) test kit and keep an eye on ammonia (should be zero), nitrite (should be zero), and nitrate (try to keep under 20) levels. You can do that with frequent water changes. Keep his temp at 78 degrees. A snail will add extra waste to the tank that isn't needed. Snails can eat plants (depends on the type of snail). Some bettas will eat snails, some don't..just depends on the betta. Freeze dried bloodworms are fine fed as a snack, but should not be used as the staple food in your betta's diet.
Hope that answers all your questions, if not you can check out the website in my profile for more betta info.
Reply:well..
1) in my opinion, i think he stays at the top waiting for food. my betta swims up to the top every time it sees me! you should put something in the tank to occupy him. A little hiding place, maybe?
2) I think it will be best not to get a snail because betta are independant, proud creatures and a snail may cause him to get stressed since he may think the snail is stealing his habitat.
3)as long as the plants arent in soil (because soil will cause the water to get dirtier.)
4)Bloodworms should be an occasional treat only, not the regular food. Buy regular betta food (the most simple ones are spherical brown grains) and give bloodworms as an additional treat.
5)Yes. I put mine in after about three minutes. You have to wait for the water to settle into room temperature or the betta will get a shock but what you did sounds fine.
6)That is possible although mine has never jumped out. But if you dont want to risk it, prop up a mirror against to pot you're going to keep him in while you change the water and your betta will be too busy just staring at the mirror thinking its another betta. (and dont worry when it looks like his face poofs up. he's just trying to frighten the betta in the mirror away.
Good Luck!
Reply:You should get him some Betta pellets just for some variation. Depending on the type of snail, it may be fine, and it may be a horrible idea. Mystery Snails are fairly large, won't eat plants, and will not breed like Guppies. All the snails that you find on live plants are no good. Before you know it, you'll have hundreds of them crawling through your tank. The Betta will not eat snails. The reason he stays at the top is because Bettas breath air (they don't use their gills to extract oxygen from the water). You will soon see him "gasping" for air, but that is just breathing. If you want, you can leave the plants potted (I don't but it really doesn't matter). As long as the temperature in the cup was similar to the temperature in the tank, it is fine. Email me if you have any questions...
Nosoop4u
Reply:1.) You have too many decorations in your 2.5 gallon tank. Keep only a minimum of one or two live plants. I would recommend two Micro Swords. Another suggestion would be one or two silk plants. Never get platic plants. They can tear the Betta's fins. Your Betta stays at the top because it perfers mid-top tank levels when inside an aquarium.
2.) Your 2.5 gallon tank should already have a built-in filtration unit already. As for a heater, I would recommend a Mini Heater.
3.) Get a Mystery Snail. You do not have to worry about the Betta bothering it. If you get live plants, chances are the snail will eat your plants. Go with artificial silk plants to keep this from happening.
4.) That is an option. Your plants will continue to grow either way.
5.) Bettas eat pellets that are made for them. Feed it between 6 to 8 pellets twice a day. The bloodworms are actually a treat for the Betta.
6.) Actually you were supposed to wait 15 minutes but he did turn out fine obviously.
7.) Get a small net so that next time you have to do a water change, you won't have to worry about him jumping out.
Hope all this helps.
hiking boots reviews
I need some help answering a couple of questions.?
thanks alot.. whoever knows the most or has the best explainations wins best answer.
In a testcross, which of the following must be true...
a. One of the individuals is homozygous dominant.
b.One of the individuals is homozygous recessive
c. Both individuals are heterozygous
d. both individuals are homozygous
e. both individuals have an unknown phenotype.
Diatoms are the primary producers in whch of the following ecosystems...
a. Marine
b. Desert
c. Temperature broadleaf forest
d. Chaparral
e. Tropical rain forest.
During which type of reaction is energy consumed?
a. Hydrolisis
b. Catabolic
c. oxidation-reduction
d. endergonic
e. exergonic
I need some help answering a couple of questions.?
1) B one individual is homozygous recessive
This allows you to see, for example, if some recessive show up. The test cross determines if a phenotypically dominant organism has a heterzygous or homozygous genotype. If it is a homozygous genotype, all offspring are going to be phenotypically dominant. If it is heterzygous, some dominant and some recessive phentoypes appear.
2) A. Marine
Diatoms (Greek: διά (dia) = "through" + τέμνειν (temnein) = "to cut", i.e., "cut in half") are a major group of eukaryotic algae, and are one of the most common types of phytoplankton. Most diatoms are unicellular, although some form chains or simple colonies. A characteristic feature of diatom cells is that they are encased within a unique cell wall made of silica (hydrated silicon dioxide). These walls show a wide diversity in form, some quite beautiful and ornate, but usually consist of two asymmetrical sides with a split between them, hence the group name. Fossil evidence suggests that they originated during, or before, the early Jurassic Period. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatom)
The fact that they are a type of plankton shows that they are in marine ecosystems
3) D. endergonic
end·er·gon·ic (ndr-gnk) KEY
ADJECTIVE:
Requiring energy: an endergonic chemical reaction
http://education.yahoo.com/reference/dic...
It takes energy for it to occur
I am 100% on all three answers
Reply:B. A test cross is when you cross the unknown with a homozygous recessive individual. Since the known is homozygous recessive, the genotype of the unknown will show up.
A. Marine. Diatoms are unicellular algae.
D. That's the definition of endergonic reactions.
In a testcross, which of the following must be true...
a. One of the individuals is homozygous dominant.
b.One of the individuals is homozygous recessive
c. Both individuals are heterozygous
d. both individuals are homozygous
e. both individuals have an unknown phenotype.
Diatoms are the primary producers in whch of the following ecosystems...
a. Marine
b. Desert
c. Temperature broadleaf forest
d. Chaparral
e. Tropical rain forest.
During which type of reaction is energy consumed?
a. Hydrolisis
b. Catabolic
c. oxidation-reduction
d. endergonic
e. exergonic
I need some help answering a couple of questions.?
1) B one individual is homozygous recessive
This allows you to see, for example, if some recessive show up. The test cross determines if a phenotypically dominant organism has a heterzygous or homozygous genotype. If it is a homozygous genotype, all offspring are going to be phenotypically dominant. If it is heterzygous, some dominant and some recessive phentoypes appear.
2) A. Marine
Diatoms (Greek: διά (dia) = "through" + τέμνειν (temnein) = "to cut", i.e., "cut in half") are a major group of eukaryotic algae, and are one of the most common types of phytoplankton. Most diatoms are unicellular, although some form chains or simple colonies. A characteristic feature of diatom cells is that they are encased within a unique cell wall made of silica (hydrated silicon dioxide). These walls show a wide diversity in form, some quite beautiful and ornate, but usually consist of two asymmetrical sides with a split between them, hence the group name. Fossil evidence suggests that they originated during, or before, the early Jurassic Period. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatom)
The fact that they are a type of plankton shows that they are in marine ecosystems
3) D. endergonic
end·er·gon·ic (ndr-gnk) KEY
ADJECTIVE:
Requiring energy: an endergonic chemical reaction
http://education.yahoo.com/reference/dic...
It takes energy for it to occur
I am 100% on all three answers
Reply:B. A test cross is when you cross the unknown with a homozygous recessive individual. Since the known is homozygous recessive, the genotype of the unknown will show up.
A. Marine. Diatoms are unicellular algae.
D. That's the definition of endergonic reactions.
Any really good lawn experts out there??
I have gotten so many different recommendations that it is driving me mad!
I am a landscaper gardener, but am still new to the whole herbicide thing and how to come up with the perfect lawn.
I have one lawn that is still new, kind of , was seeded good last fall, but still has bare areas and thin in places. I was thinking to just focus on seeding and fertilization instead of pre-emergent and then come back later in early fall and kill any weeds that came up over summer.
the other is , i would say, 20% broadleaf weeds maybe less. the rest is fescue in shaded areas and bermuda in sunny areas.
i have seeded , aerated , and fertilized this customer last spring and last fall and he wants to do it again this spring, but I am thinking maybe it would be better to put down a weed and feed (even though it has been in the 80's this last 2 weeks) , and thenspray his lawn 2-3 times over with 24D and maybe MSMA as well to get rid of his weeds and then seed and aerate him in the fal
Any really good lawn experts out there??
You're on the right track. Priority one is to get the seed established, then kill the weeds. Wait a minimum of thirty days after germination before putting weed killer down. It takes longer, but for best results I still recomend spot spraying broadleaf weeds over broadcasting the whole lawn. Less herbicide, more effective, better for the environment.
Reply:you cannot be serious over the pond we would call that a roadside verge no wonder you have no grass court tennis
I am a landscaper gardener, but am still new to the whole herbicide thing and how to come up with the perfect lawn.
I have one lawn that is still new, kind of , was seeded good last fall, but still has bare areas and thin in places. I was thinking to just focus on seeding and fertilization instead of pre-emergent and then come back later in early fall and kill any weeds that came up over summer.
the other is , i would say, 20% broadleaf weeds maybe less. the rest is fescue in shaded areas and bermuda in sunny areas.
i have seeded , aerated , and fertilized this customer last spring and last fall and he wants to do it again this spring, but I am thinking maybe it would be better to put down a weed and feed (even though it has been in the 80's this last 2 weeks) , and thenspray his lawn 2-3 times over with 24D and maybe MSMA as well to get rid of his weeds and then seed and aerate him in the fal
Any really good lawn experts out there??
You're on the right track. Priority one is to get the seed established, then kill the weeds. Wait a minimum of thirty days after germination before putting weed killer down. It takes longer, but for best results I still recomend spot spraying broadleaf weeds over broadcasting the whole lawn. Less herbicide, more effective, better for the environment.
Reply:you cannot be serious over the pond we would call that a roadside verge no wonder you have no grass court tennis
Quickly please.?
Does rapidly flowing water cause water to evaporate?
Which of these leaf types most effectively reduces the amount of water lost to evaporation?- broadleaf deciduous, cactus spines, needles of a coniferous tree or palm fronds?
Are old growth forrests fairly common in North america or are they gone forever, or are they the climax forrest for their region, or home to rich diversity?
Quickly please.?
Cactus, of course, are designed for the minimum amount of water loss through evaporation. Palm fronds and coniferous would also be good choices if you are interested in water loss although they both need a lot of water to stay healthy. Broadleaf deciduous would have the most water loss.
Reply:yes
Reply:Water flowing rapidly does not in and of itself cause evaporation but faster flowing water exposes more water (i.e. surface area over time is greater) than slower water and thus evaporation should be higher.
Needles.
Diversity.
Reply:I believe the answer by "the voice of reason" was accurate and succinct
I would add that whether old growth forrests are considered "common" depends on your definition of common
there are hundreds of thousands of acres of old growth forest in North America
Which of these leaf types most effectively reduces the amount of water lost to evaporation?- broadleaf deciduous, cactus spines, needles of a coniferous tree or palm fronds?
Are old growth forrests fairly common in North america or are they gone forever, or are they the climax forrest for their region, or home to rich diversity?
Quickly please.?
Cactus, of course, are designed for the minimum amount of water loss through evaporation. Palm fronds and coniferous would also be good choices if you are interested in water loss although they both need a lot of water to stay healthy. Broadleaf deciduous would have the most water loss.
Reply:yes
Reply:Water flowing rapidly does not in and of itself cause evaporation but faster flowing water exposes more water (i.e. surface area over time is greater) than slower water and thus evaporation should be higher.
Needles.
Diversity.
Reply:I believe the answer by "the voice of reason" was accurate and succinct
I would add that whether old growth forrests are considered "common" depends on your definition of common
there are hundreds of thousands of acres of old growth forest in North America
How do I get rid of a viola weed in my lawn?
It has purple flowers in the spring but after they are gone it's just a broadleaf weed that takes over the grass. I've tried weed and feed, dry and spray varieties.
How do I get rid of a viola weed in my lawn?
Most experts recommend killing everything in the entire area with round-up and then reseeding.
Reply:Another alternative if you don't feel like killing your entire lawn is improving your maintenance procedures. This will take a little more patience, but it will cost less and prevent the same problem in the future.
1. Cut your grass high and often. High grass helps keep the weeds from getting a foothold in your lawn. Cutting often never allows the weed to seed and spread.
2. Water deep and infrequently. Weeds thrive from frequent, shallow waterings. Grass thrives when its roots run deep from proper deep irrigation.
Hope this helps.
Teeth Implants
How do I get rid of a viola weed in my lawn?
Most experts recommend killing everything in the entire area with round-up and then reseeding.
Reply:Another alternative if you don't feel like killing your entire lawn is improving your maintenance procedures. This will take a little more patience, but it will cost less and prevent the same problem in the future.
1. Cut your grass high and often. High grass helps keep the weeds from getting a foothold in your lawn. Cutting often never allows the weed to seed and spread.
2. Water deep and infrequently. Weeds thrive from frequent, shallow waterings. Grass thrives when its roots run deep from proper deep irrigation.
Hope this helps.
Teeth Implants
How are trees able to transport water from their roots to their tops?
Given that large broadleaf trees lose a lot of water on hot days, and some Redwoods can reach heights of more than 300 ft, it is obvious that enormous amounts of water must be moved. I don't think capillary action can account for this, and at the risk of sounding stupid, trees don't have hearts. Informed responses are appreciated.
How are trees able to transport water from their roots to their tops?
It is combination of things. Capillary movement is a very small part of it and one of the reasons that it is possible. Tension and cohesion of water is yet another that makes it possible. However, what makes it all work is the process of transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of water from the leaf surface through the stoma. This evaporation causes the water to be pulled through the plant.
Capillary movement only moves the water very short distances. Within the xylem there are plates called sieve plates, these prevent air bubbles that would break the cohesion.
This is a very simple explanation and leaves out other factors that are very important. For more information run a search on yahoo or Google with transpiration or water movement in plants and read through those.
Reply:By capillary action in the bark of the tree
Reply:Capillary action alone is too weak and air pressure can only push up to 30m or so I think. 2nd answer up there is probably right. As water molecules leave by evaporating it pulls other water molecules slightly up through weak force (hydrogen bond, its same force that can make water droplets stick to glass). From what I remember I it was combination of capillary and weak force among water molecules (may some osmotic pressure in there too).
Reply:capillary action, yes, but it might be assisted by wind blowing over the surface of the entire tree/leaves and causing a low pressure zone, so that it aids in the assent of the fluids along with heat/thermal fluidic transience.
Reply:The xylem transports sap from the root up the plant: xylem sap consists mainly of water and inorganic ions, although it can contain a number of organic chemicals as well.
This transport is not powered by energy spent by the tracheary elements themselves, which are dead at maturity and no longer have living contents. Two phenomena cause xylem sap to flow:
The soil solution (see soil) is more dilute than the cytosol of the root cells. Thus, water moves osmotically into the cells, creating root pressure. Root pressure is very variable between different plants.
By far the most important cause of xylem sap flow is transpirational pull. The reverse of root pressure, this is caused by the transpiration of water. In larger plants such as trees, the root pressure and transpirational pull work together as a pump that pull.
Plants by the way develop ways to adapted to there environment. for example the plants that u said have large leaves. the pattern of the leaves could be overlapping so that not all leaves are exposed.Such plants have some xeromorphic features in order that they should conserve enough water such as a cuticle, stomata with regulable diameter, and a greater number of stomata on the undersides of leaves.Again they have no specific adaptations to overcome this, and can only respond by closing their stomata to prevent further dehydration. Their cells are thus likely to lose turgidity. This may cause the plants cells to become plasmolysed. prompting wilting. Wilting does actually have some benefits as it reduces the leaf surface area exposed to the atmosphere, meaning it reduces transpiration, and that exposed to solar radiation, meaning temperature stress is reduced. Although mesophytes often recover from such wilting, prolonged periods of it can lead to permanent wilting or cell plasmolysis and subsequently death.
-----sorry for the long sorry. but u do understand now right?------------------
Reply:capillarity of the xylem, and the sucking power of the leaves. The pressure in the root support the water cames up too.
Reply:You already know the answer. Its called transparation. The evaporation of the moisture through the leaves enhances the capillary action, drawing water through the roots and then either the xylem or ploem( i forget which). I also think it has something yo do with cellular density, as the cells higher in the plant lose water the cells equalize pressure by moving more water vertically.
Reply:Never underestimate the forces of turgor pressure.You are dealing with a living organism which depends on its' existence of a whole lattice-work of engineering and chemical pathways..phloem and xylem etc etc .Sorry ,the lady before has said most of what you want to know.
Reply:yes it is capillary action.
How are trees able to transport water from their roots to their tops?
It is combination of things. Capillary movement is a very small part of it and one of the reasons that it is possible. Tension and cohesion of water is yet another that makes it possible. However, what makes it all work is the process of transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of water from the leaf surface through the stoma. This evaporation causes the water to be pulled through the plant.
Capillary movement only moves the water very short distances. Within the xylem there are plates called sieve plates, these prevent air bubbles that would break the cohesion.
This is a very simple explanation and leaves out other factors that are very important. For more information run a search on yahoo or Google with transpiration or water movement in plants and read through those.
Reply:By capillary action in the bark of the tree
Reply:Capillary action alone is too weak and air pressure can only push up to 30m or so I think. 2nd answer up there is probably right. As water molecules leave by evaporating it pulls other water molecules slightly up through weak force (hydrogen bond, its same force that can make water droplets stick to glass). From what I remember I it was combination of capillary and weak force among water molecules (may some osmotic pressure in there too).
Reply:capillary action, yes, but it might be assisted by wind blowing over the surface of the entire tree/leaves and causing a low pressure zone, so that it aids in the assent of the fluids along with heat/thermal fluidic transience.
Reply:The xylem transports sap from the root up the plant: xylem sap consists mainly of water and inorganic ions, although it can contain a number of organic chemicals as well.
This transport is not powered by energy spent by the tracheary elements themselves, which are dead at maturity and no longer have living contents. Two phenomena cause xylem sap to flow:
The soil solution (see soil) is more dilute than the cytosol of the root cells. Thus, water moves osmotically into the cells, creating root pressure. Root pressure is very variable between different plants.
By far the most important cause of xylem sap flow is transpirational pull. The reverse of root pressure, this is caused by the transpiration of water. In larger plants such as trees, the root pressure and transpirational pull work together as a pump that pull.
Plants by the way develop ways to adapted to there environment. for example the plants that u said have large leaves. the pattern of the leaves could be overlapping so that not all leaves are exposed.Such plants have some xeromorphic features in order that they should conserve enough water such as a cuticle, stomata with regulable diameter, and a greater number of stomata on the undersides of leaves.Again they have no specific adaptations to overcome this, and can only respond by closing their stomata to prevent further dehydration. Their cells are thus likely to lose turgidity. This may cause the plants cells to become plasmolysed. prompting wilting. Wilting does actually have some benefits as it reduces the leaf surface area exposed to the atmosphere, meaning it reduces transpiration, and that exposed to solar radiation, meaning temperature stress is reduced. Although mesophytes often recover from such wilting, prolonged periods of it can lead to permanent wilting or cell plasmolysis and subsequently death.
-----sorry for the long sorry. but u do understand now right?------------------
Reply:capillarity of the xylem, and the sucking power of the leaves. The pressure in the root support the water cames up too.
Reply:You already know the answer. Its called transparation. The evaporation of the moisture through the leaves enhances the capillary action, drawing water through the roots and then either the xylem or ploem( i forget which). I also think it has something yo do with cellular density, as the cells higher in the plant lose water the cells equalize pressure by moving more water vertically.
Reply:Never underestimate the forces of turgor pressure.You are dealing with a living organism which depends on its' existence of a whole lattice-work of engineering and chemical pathways..phloem and xylem etc etc .Sorry ,the lady before has said most of what you want to know.
Reply:yes it is capillary action.
How much CO2 does the average tree convert into oxygen in a year?
I realize different types of trees may produce differing results. If someone knows the data for confiers, broadleaf trees, grasses, etc that would be nice. Or if not, an overall average would suffice.
How much CO2 does the average tree convert into oxygen in a year?
Biochemically, trees do not convert any CO2 into oxygen. In the light reactions of photosynthesis, oxygen is released from water, not CO2.
Most of the carbon dioxide put into the atmosphere comes from automobile and industrial emissions, not decomposing plants.
Most of the oxygen in our atmosphere is produced from algae
along the coastal regions of the world's oceans.
Reply:trees are not the important factor in globle warming its co2 exhaled by 6 billion people.
Reply:The average tree, over the course of its lifecycle, converts no CO2 into oxygen, as when it dies the decomposition releases all the gas that was trapped in its lifetime. So unless you do something permanent with the wood, planting trees will not affect global CO2 levels.
How much CO2 does the average tree convert into oxygen in a year?
Biochemically, trees do not convert any CO2 into oxygen. In the light reactions of photosynthesis, oxygen is released from water, not CO2.
Most of the carbon dioxide put into the atmosphere comes from automobile and industrial emissions, not decomposing plants.
Most of the oxygen in our atmosphere is produced from algae
along the coastal regions of the world's oceans.
Reply:trees are not the important factor in globle warming its co2 exhaled by 6 billion people.
Reply:The average tree, over the course of its lifecycle, converts no CO2 into oxygen, as when it dies the decomposition releases all the gas that was trapped in its lifetime. So unless you do something permanent with the wood, planting trees will not affect global CO2 levels.
How early can I start weed killer in West Michigan?
I have dandalions,crab grass and broadleaf, not much grass after that! I need to know how soon I can get started in the spring on this mess. I would like to see some what of a nice lawn this year,but I'm not even sure where to start. Well, we did thatch it but thats it so far 3-26-08
How early can I start weed killer in West Michigan?
There isn't a specific day you can start. You need to read the label of the product you will be using. Most chemicals need warmer weather to be effective. There are some new ones on the market that are effective in cooler temperatures. Hit the stores and read the labels. Set those that work in cool temps in your shopping cart. Once you have a few then go back and find out if they are effective against the weeds you want to get rid of.
Good luck!
Reply:Your area is not that far off from mine and im using fetilizer now, I wouldnt use the weed killer though til atleast the 3rd week in April or when you have a week of atleat 60 degree weather.
Reply:Call a local garden center or lawn service place. They should have a good idea when to begin.
How early can I start weed killer in West Michigan?
There isn't a specific day you can start. You need to read the label of the product you will be using. Most chemicals need warmer weather to be effective. There are some new ones on the market that are effective in cooler temperatures. Hit the stores and read the labels. Set those that work in cool temps in your shopping cart. Once you have a few then go back and find out if they are effective against the weeds you want to get rid of.
Good luck!
Reply:Your area is not that far off from mine and im using fetilizer now, I wouldnt use the weed killer though til atleast the 3rd week in April or when you have a week of atleat 60 degree weather.
Reply:Call a local garden center or lawn service place. They should have a good idea when to begin.
How did people fertilize lawns , plants before chemical fertilizers?
I am imagining they probably threw out a thin layer of sifted cow manure on the lawn?? as well as around plants?
anyone know for sure?
how often and frequently did people do this?
and what about broadleaf weeds in the lawn?
Thanks for your answers!
How did people fertilize lawns , plants before chemical fertilizers?
Until around 1900 there were no lawns except for the very rich and they used to graze sheep on their swaths of grass to weed, mow and feed the lawn. Very small lawns were hand cut with scissors.
Sometime in the late 1800 the lawn mower was invented but it was loud, big, dangerous and expensive so it did not catch on at first. when they made mowers smaller and easier to use people started putting in lawns and getting rid of their veg and flower gardens.
Chemical fertilizers came into their own after WWII, around 1947 as did herbicides.
I don't believe the early lawn farmers had monocropped lawns as we see today and likely were not as phobic about clover (which is a great addition to the lawn as it adds a lot of nitrogen which grass needs). And this is one of the ways early lawns were fertilized-they were not just one or two species of plant but a large hodgepodge of pasture plants.
Reply:They used cow manure, horse manure, chicken and most all other farm animal manure. Not fresh as it would burn the plants. Most households had compost piles.
During the growing seasons about once a month is good to work a little steer into the soil.
Due to people not adding stuff back into the soil and planting the same crops in the same fields was part of the cause of the GREAT DUST BOWL that devastated the midwest.
If you don't want to use weed killer and there are too many to pull, try using boiling water directly on each weed.
Reply:they did do just that another method is to dissolve the poo in a 5 gal bucket of water and use this in a hand held watering can to put extra fertilizer directly to plants and flowers as for the broad leaf issue they had a solution for that too its called a garden hoe LOL good luck
Reply:My grandfather used a compose pile that he put all yard debrise and table scraps, coffee grounds, eggs, etc. into. He covered it with dark plastic or cloth of some kind. He'd go out and turn it ever few days with a pitch fork and shovel. It makes a natural fertilizer he'd use on the lawn, plants including flowers, shrubs, and vegetables. Don't know about the weed problem.
Reply:People used to use all sorts of things as fertiliser. ''Blood and bone meal'', farmyard manure, seaweed, limestone, etc.
Broad leafed weeds are easy. Get a selective weedkiller. Something like 24-D or Dicamba. Some weeds are resistant so check on the label to see if it will work on the weeds you have. Spray it out at the required rate and the grass will be unharmed.
Before chemicals, weeding had to be done by hand.
Reply:you only need to fertilize if you cut the grass short as you are removing its feed source in the grass blades.before chemicals arrived,no-body used any because the grass was cut less often and so was generally a bit longer.A park grass is never fed because its longer than garden lawn,weeds find it harder to germinate in longer grass which is why you need to weedkill in manicured lawn.Weeds were fewer and so dug out by hand,special tools were available for this.
Reply:In the UK, until (I think) around the mid19C, people in cities (apart from the middle and upper classes, usually didn't have gardens - just a tiny back yard... no soil. People in rural areas lived in cottages with a little ground to grow or raise their own food. Often, the cottage was tied to the agricultural job and the land (only a reasonable sized garden) was part of the 'wages', a concession.
The country-dwellers didn't have lawns (only the rich landowners), they used the ground to grow vegetables and fruit and interplanted flowers in any gaps, to brighten up the view, or for medicinal purposes... the ultimate companion planting! They also kept a few chickens and sometimes a pig and/or a cow: the manure was used to fertilise the ground.
In towns, those with gardens (and staff) might also keep a few chickens in the kitchen garden. Transport was by horses and carts or carriages, so there was plenty of manure for the taking. There were street cleaners who shovelled up the stuff onto a cart and no doubt sold it.
Gardening didn't really become a hobby, among the working class, until the beginning of the 20C, when it was encourage as one way of civilising the masses.
Reply:My father was a gardener and used to collect comfrey leaves and let them rot down in his water butt, this evidently makes o good all purpose fertilizer and no seed is introduced .
Reply:In the good old days...we're going back to 1949, we had our milk delivered by horse and cart, and there were always a couple of people at the ready with a shovel...need I say more?
Reply:dun, and weed pullers.
fabric boot
anyone know for sure?
how often and frequently did people do this?
and what about broadleaf weeds in the lawn?
Thanks for your answers!
How did people fertilize lawns , plants before chemical fertilizers?
Until around 1900 there were no lawns except for the very rich and they used to graze sheep on their swaths of grass to weed, mow and feed the lawn. Very small lawns were hand cut with scissors.
Sometime in the late 1800 the lawn mower was invented but it was loud, big, dangerous and expensive so it did not catch on at first. when they made mowers smaller and easier to use people started putting in lawns and getting rid of their veg and flower gardens.
Chemical fertilizers came into their own after WWII, around 1947 as did herbicides.
I don't believe the early lawn farmers had monocropped lawns as we see today and likely were not as phobic about clover (which is a great addition to the lawn as it adds a lot of nitrogen which grass needs). And this is one of the ways early lawns were fertilized-they were not just one or two species of plant but a large hodgepodge of pasture plants.
Reply:They used cow manure, horse manure, chicken and most all other farm animal manure. Not fresh as it would burn the plants. Most households had compost piles.
During the growing seasons about once a month is good to work a little steer into the soil.
Due to people not adding stuff back into the soil and planting the same crops in the same fields was part of the cause of the GREAT DUST BOWL that devastated the midwest.
If you don't want to use weed killer and there are too many to pull, try using boiling water directly on each weed.
Reply:they did do just that another method is to dissolve the poo in a 5 gal bucket of water and use this in a hand held watering can to put extra fertilizer directly to plants and flowers as for the broad leaf issue they had a solution for that too its called a garden hoe LOL good luck
Reply:My grandfather used a compose pile that he put all yard debrise and table scraps, coffee grounds, eggs, etc. into. He covered it with dark plastic or cloth of some kind. He'd go out and turn it ever few days with a pitch fork and shovel. It makes a natural fertilizer he'd use on the lawn, plants including flowers, shrubs, and vegetables. Don't know about the weed problem.
Reply:People used to use all sorts of things as fertiliser. ''Blood and bone meal'', farmyard manure, seaweed, limestone, etc.
Broad leafed weeds are easy. Get a selective weedkiller. Something like 24-D or Dicamba. Some weeds are resistant so check on the label to see if it will work on the weeds you have. Spray it out at the required rate and the grass will be unharmed.
Before chemicals, weeding had to be done by hand.
Reply:you only need to fertilize if you cut the grass short as you are removing its feed source in the grass blades.before chemicals arrived,no-body used any because the grass was cut less often and so was generally a bit longer.A park grass is never fed because its longer than garden lawn,weeds find it harder to germinate in longer grass which is why you need to weedkill in manicured lawn.Weeds were fewer and so dug out by hand,special tools were available for this.
Reply:In the UK, until (I think) around the mid19C, people in cities (apart from the middle and upper classes, usually didn't have gardens - just a tiny back yard... no soil. People in rural areas lived in cottages with a little ground to grow or raise their own food. Often, the cottage was tied to the agricultural job and the land (only a reasonable sized garden) was part of the 'wages', a concession.
The country-dwellers didn't have lawns (only the rich landowners), they used the ground to grow vegetables and fruit and interplanted flowers in any gaps, to brighten up the view, or for medicinal purposes... the ultimate companion planting! They also kept a few chickens and sometimes a pig and/or a cow: the manure was used to fertilise the ground.
In towns, those with gardens (and staff) might also keep a few chickens in the kitchen garden. Transport was by horses and carts or carriages, so there was plenty of manure for the taking. There were street cleaners who shovelled up the stuff onto a cart and no doubt sold it.
Gardening didn't really become a hobby, among the working class, until the beginning of the 20C, when it was encourage as one way of civilising the masses.
Reply:My father was a gardener and used to collect comfrey leaves and let them rot down in his water butt, this evidently makes o good all purpose fertilizer and no seed is introduced .
Reply:In the good old days...we're going back to 1949, we had our milk delivered by horse and cart, and there were always a couple of people at the ready with a shovel...need I say more?
Reply:dun, and weed pullers.
fabric boot
Tips for getting the lawn into great shape for Spring?
I would like to 1. spread out granular crabgrass prevention
2. spread out granular fertilizer
3. spread out more seed
4. Spray broadleaf weeds with post emergent
herbicide
I understand that perhaps the timing is the big issue here, so are there any good lawn experts who can help me space out the times in which to do these and any advice on how to do this?
Thanks for your answers!
Tips for getting the lawn into great shape for Spring?
Begin by using a lawn rake and raking out the thatch,moss and other debris.
Seed and fertilizer should be applied separately,also any treatment of weeds.
Suggest raking in March/April,assuming the UK.
Take an ordinary rake and work down any bare spots to a tilth.Seed at app;2. 0z; to the yard and cover lightly with sieved soil.
When the seed has germinated,allow to grow for 4 weeks or so .
Then lightly mow,apply fertilizer during showery weather.
Finally,spray the weeds in the late summer.
Spike the lawn with a hollow tine fork,then brush in the fertilizer.Ensure it's well watered and you should have a lawn to be proud of!
Reply:You need to sow the new grass seed first and let it germinate. You don't want to use crabgrass preventer with new grass until you have at least 3 cuttings on the new grass. Crabgrass preventer is pre-emergent. Pre-emergent kills ALL seeds and even kills things like tulip bulbs. Crabgrass actually dies every year, but right before it dies, it throws out thousands of seeds. These seeds sit in the soil dormant until springtime.
If you want a nice lawn, sow the grass at the rate of 3-5 pounds per 1000 square feet, and do this in the fall. Then, in the early spring you can use the pre-emergent to get rid of the crabgrass and other weeds.
Scott's has a good website that will send you free reminders to tell you what to apply and when.
The Lawnmaker
2. spread out granular fertilizer
3. spread out more seed
4. Spray broadleaf weeds with post emergent
herbicide
I understand that perhaps the timing is the big issue here, so are there any good lawn experts who can help me space out the times in which to do these and any advice on how to do this?
Thanks for your answers!
Tips for getting the lawn into great shape for Spring?
Begin by using a lawn rake and raking out the thatch,moss and other debris.
Seed and fertilizer should be applied separately,also any treatment of weeds.
Suggest raking in March/April,assuming the UK.
Take an ordinary rake and work down any bare spots to a tilth.Seed at app;2. 0z; to the yard and cover lightly with sieved soil.
When the seed has germinated,allow to grow for 4 weeks or so .
Then lightly mow,apply fertilizer during showery weather.
Finally,spray the weeds in the late summer.
Spike the lawn with a hollow tine fork,then brush in the fertilizer.Ensure it's well watered and you should have a lawn to be proud of!
Reply:You need to sow the new grass seed first and let it germinate. You don't want to use crabgrass preventer with new grass until you have at least 3 cuttings on the new grass. Crabgrass preventer is pre-emergent. Pre-emergent kills ALL seeds and even kills things like tulip bulbs. Crabgrass actually dies every year, but right before it dies, it throws out thousands of seeds. These seeds sit in the soil dormant until springtime.
If you want a nice lawn, sow the grass at the rate of 3-5 pounds per 1000 square feet, and do this in the fall. Then, in the early spring you can use the pre-emergent to get rid of the crabgrass and other weeds.
Scott's has a good website that will send you free reminders to tell you what to apply and when.
The Lawnmaker
What should I do with my lawn?
My husband and I are moving into a new house (our first!) and the lawn is flat with a straight sidewalk going from street to door. There's a tree on either side of the property (away from the sidewalk, which is pretty much smack dab in the middle) but nothing else. There's crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds taking over. I need ideas to first, get rid of the weeds and prevent them from coming back, and second, to dress up the boring lawn a little bit. I really like lillies, but I'm not quite sure how (or what kinds) to use those, or where to use them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
What should I do with my lawn?
If you can afford it, have a professional landscaper put in the lawn for you. You will be glad you did. Not all grasses will grown under trees.
Lilies.....there are all different types that grow at different times of the years. Check out this link:
http://backyardgardener.com/plants/glil....
Reply:Generally speaking, having grass on your front lawn is a complete waste of space. People will just walk on it (or let their dogs use it!) and you have to mow it to fit in with the neighborhood. Using chemical weedkillers, fertilizers, etc. is harmful to birds and wildlife. We got rid of all our grass and sold the lawnmower. All you have to do is rototill the grass (being careful of the tree roots) and replant with a nice low groundcover such as myrtle (Vinca minor) or bugleweed (Ajuga reptans). They are zero maintenance, have beautiful evergreen foliage plus nice flowers in the spring, and you can walk on them if you need to get in and pull weeds. If you want, you can plant some bulbs right in with the ground cover. We recommend daffodils, which squirrels won't dig up and eat. You can plant day lilies in groups near the house. They are tall, and will make a nice background, although they don't blossom for long. You might want to put in some other longer-lasting perennials such as black-eyed Susans, daisies, or Gaillardia. Enjoy your garden!
Reply:Go for a drive through residential areas, and take pictures of homes with landscaping that you like.
Then in the comfort of your home you can decide which ideas you like, and incorporate them.
Reply:i have heard that raising the blades on your lawn mower can prevent and get rid of weeds.
What should I do with my lawn?
If you can afford it, have a professional landscaper put in the lawn for you. You will be glad you did. Not all grasses will grown under trees.
Lilies.....there are all different types that grow at different times of the years. Check out this link:
http://backyardgardener.com/plants/glil....
Reply:Generally speaking, having grass on your front lawn is a complete waste of space. People will just walk on it (or let their dogs use it!) and you have to mow it to fit in with the neighborhood. Using chemical weedkillers, fertilizers, etc. is harmful to birds and wildlife. We got rid of all our grass and sold the lawnmower. All you have to do is rototill the grass (being careful of the tree roots) and replant with a nice low groundcover such as myrtle (Vinca minor) or bugleweed (Ajuga reptans). They are zero maintenance, have beautiful evergreen foliage plus nice flowers in the spring, and you can walk on them if you need to get in and pull weeds. If you want, you can plant some bulbs right in with the ground cover. We recommend daffodils, which squirrels won't dig up and eat. You can plant day lilies in groups near the house. They are tall, and will make a nice background, although they don't blossom for long. You might want to put in some other longer-lasting perennials such as black-eyed Susans, daisies, or Gaillardia. Enjoy your garden!
Reply:Go for a drive through residential areas, and take pictures of homes with landscaping that you like.
Then in the comfort of your home you can decide which ideas you like, and incorporate them.
Reply:i have heard that raising the blades on your lawn mower can prevent and get rid of weeds.
Can anyone tell me the benefits of lime on my garden and lawn? Do I use liquid lime or dry lime?
A guy told me to go liquid lime cuz it more pure and you dont need as much. he also said lime will get rid of many unwanted broadleaf weeds%26amp; creeping charlie in my lawn. Is that right? Good as chemicals?
Can anyone tell me the benefits of lime on my garden and lawn? Do I use liquid lime or dry lime?
Hi,
You use lime if you want to raise the PH of your soil (make it more alkaline). So you really only need it if you have very acidic soil. I find that gardens like acidic soil - blueberries, tomatoes, etc. While grass doesn't. I wouldn't add it to your garden without doing a test to see what the PH is and then looking up what the optimal PH is for whatever you want to plant there. I never heard of lime killing broadleaf weeds.
A good source of information is your county extension office (find it here: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/ ) or local universities (like this link: http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/tur... ).
Good Luck
Reply:I don't mean to sound daft... but when he says "liquid lime" he doesn't mean lime juice! That would make your garden somewhat more acidic!! :)
Reply:lime neutralizes your soil. it is used alot if you have clay soil.or bad soil.actually the granual is better to mix with your soil and than wet it down not soak it just wet it . i worked lawn and garden for years.
Can anyone tell me the benefits of lime on my garden and lawn? Do I use liquid lime or dry lime?
Hi,
You use lime if you want to raise the PH of your soil (make it more alkaline). So you really only need it if you have very acidic soil. I find that gardens like acidic soil - blueberries, tomatoes, etc. While grass doesn't. I wouldn't add it to your garden without doing a test to see what the PH is and then looking up what the optimal PH is for whatever you want to plant there. I never heard of lime killing broadleaf weeds.
A good source of information is your county extension office (find it here: http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/ ) or local universities (like this link: http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/hortcult/tur... ).
Good Luck
Reply:I don't mean to sound daft... but when he says "liquid lime" he doesn't mean lime juice! That would make your garden somewhat more acidic!! :)
Reply:lime neutralizes your soil. it is used alot if you have clay soil.or bad soil.actually the granual is better to mix with your soil and than wet it down not soak it just wet it . i worked lawn and garden for years.
Definitive measurement of CO2 sequestration in trees?
Hi. I've tried to find the definitive average figure of the amount of CO2 sequestered by trees, however it seems impossible to find a reliable figure as the variables involved mean I keep getting different answers.
It all depends on the type of tree, where it grows, how healthy it is, how old it is, etc, ect. Therefore does anyone know of any formula or definitive answer that will actually tell me how much CO2 a healthy broadleaf tree in the UK (for example) will absorb from sapling to maturity (let's say 50 years) and each year thereafter??
PLEASE don't be random - I really do need to have a proper scientific answer to this Q for research I'm doing for my charity to challenge the carbon offsetting industry.
Thank you very much.
Definitive measurement of CO2 sequestration in trees?
This is the entire problem with the whole Global Warming debate - people want "easy answers," "definitive formulas," etc.
Of course you keep getting different answers - nobody knows for sure what the weather is going to be for the next 50 years. Trees sequester more carbon in a carbon-dioxide rich atmosphere (oops!), grow better when it rains the right amount, and get the right mix of sun and cloud cover.
What you are looking for does not currently exist - and I wouldn't trust it if it did.
Reply:That will take the effort to measure CO2 sequestration in hundreds if not thousands of each specie of broadleaf tree at several stages of life. IOW, a representative sample.
Then you correlate the data and develop the formula that you are requesting.
I think that this anti-carbon industry is too new and to politically 'hot' for such _real_ research to have been done.
I think that you would do more good in spreading truth about the carbon scam than in engaging in a long-term data logging project.
Reply:Trees do take in CO2 and very quick returns the O2 and keeps the C to make there food from.
Reply:Carbon sequestration rates vary by tree species, soil type, regional climate, topography and management practice. In the U.S., fairly well-established values for carbon sequestration rates are available for most tree species. Soil carbon sequestration rates vary by soil type and cropping practice and are less well documented but information and research in this area is growing rapidly.
Pine plantations in the Southeast can accumulate almost 100 metric tons of carbon per acre after 90 years, or roughly one metric ton of carbon per acre per year (Birdsey 1996). Changes in forest management (e.g., lengthening the harvest-regeneration cycle) generally result in less carbon sequestration on a per acre basis. Changes in cropping practices, such as from conventional to conservation tillage, have been shown to sequester about 0.1 – 0.3 metric tons of carbon per acre per year (Lal et al. 1999; West and Post 2002). However, a more comprehensive picture of the climate effects of these practices needs to also consider possible nitrous oxide (N2O) and methane (CH4) emissions.
computer security
It all depends on the type of tree, where it grows, how healthy it is, how old it is, etc, ect. Therefore does anyone know of any formula or definitive answer that will actually tell me how much CO2 a healthy broadleaf tree in the UK (for example) will absorb from sapling to maturity (let's say 50 years) and each year thereafter??
PLEASE don't be random - I really do need to have a proper scientific answer to this Q for research I'm doing for my charity to challenge the carbon offsetting industry.
Thank you very much.
Definitive measurement of CO2 sequestration in trees?
This is the entire problem with the whole Global Warming debate - people want "easy answers," "definitive formulas," etc.
Of course you keep getting different answers - nobody knows for sure what the weather is going to be for the next 50 years. Trees sequester more carbon in a carbon-dioxide rich atmosphere (oops!), grow better when it rains the right amount, and get the right mix of sun and cloud cover.
What you are looking for does not currently exist - and I wouldn't trust it if it did.
Reply:That will take the effort to measure CO2 sequestration in hundreds if not thousands of each specie of broadleaf tree at several stages of life. IOW, a representative sample.
Then you correlate the data and develop the formula that you are requesting.
I think that this anti-carbon industry is too new and to politically 'hot' for such _real_ research to have been done.
I think that you would do more good in spreading truth about the carbon scam than in engaging in a long-term data logging project.
Reply:Trees do take in CO2 and very quick returns the O2 and keeps the C to make there food from.
Reply:Carbon sequestration rates vary by tree species, soil type, regional climate, topography and management practice. In the U.S., fairly well-established values for carbon sequestration rates are available for most tree species. Soil carbon sequestration rates vary by soil type and cropping practice and are less well documented but information and research in this area is growing rapidly.
Pine plantations in the Southeast can accumulate almost 100 metric tons of carbon per acre after 90 years, or roughly one metric ton of carbon per acre per year (Birdsey 1996). Changes in forest management (e.g., lengthening the harvest-regeneration cycle) generally result in less carbon sequestration on a per acre basis. Changes in cropping practices, such as from conventional to conservation tillage, have been shown to sequester about 0.1 – 0.3 metric tons of carbon per acre per year (Lal et al. 1999; West and Post 2002). However, a more comprehensive picture of the climate effects of these practices needs to also consider possible nitrous oxide (N2O) and methane (CH4) emissions.
computer security
Grasses are a dominant part of the plant community in the __________.?
a. tundra
b. savanna
c. taiga
d. broadleaf forest
e. tropical rain f
Grasses are a dominant part of the plant community in the __________.?
b. savanna
Reply:a and b
b. savanna
c. taiga
d. broadleaf forest
e. tropical rain f
Grasses are a dominant part of the plant community in the __________.?
b. savanna
Reply:a and b
How long should I wait after spraying liquid Trimec on the lawn before I mow it again?
I understand that it is better to let the broadleaf weeds grow up really good and exposed and then spray with Trimec.
But how long after does it take to the roots good to kill it?
Can I mow it 24 hours after , does it work that quick?
How long should I wait after spraying liquid Trimec on the lawn before I mow it again?
My wife keeps our tiny lawn in order, I can't be bothered. I remeber the french politician, but her name escapes me. She said that "British men dominate their lawns because they cannot dominate their wives!"
Sorry, but my life would have to be a lot simpler before I could worry about a lawn.
Reply:Don't mow your lawn three days before applying it, then don't mow againe untill three days after.
Reply:not untill it has rained or you have watered it in then not for 2 days after that
But how long after does it take to the roots good to kill it?
Can I mow it 24 hours after , does it work that quick?
How long should I wait after spraying liquid Trimec on the lawn before I mow it again?
My wife keeps our tiny lawn in order, I can't be bothered. I remeber the french politician, but her name escapes me. She said that "British men dominate their lawns because they cannot dominate their wives!"
Sorry, but my life would have to be a lot simpler before I could worry about a lawn.
Reply:Don't mow your lawn three days before applying it, then don't mow againe untill three days after.
Reply:not untill it has rained or you have watered it in then not for 2 days after that
How can I offset my annual carbon footprint?
I want to plant trees to cancel it out for the next ten years.
Using various online caluclators I have calucuated my annual C02 usage to be 24tonnes.
How many broadleaf trees will I have to plant to sequester an equivalent amount of C02 over the next 10 years.
A mixture of oak/ask/birch/pine and other trees native to the UK.
If you want to get really into the nuts and bolts of it you can assume the woodland would be managed and thinned, so the answer might be in terms of hectarage of young saplings.
But I'll take numbers of young trees too if you want to assume woodland would be unthinned.
Any views/wisdom/weblinks appreciated.
How can I offset my annual carbon footprint?
you would have to plant a lot to try to cancel that out. try reducing the amount you drive or simply recycling. every little bit helps!
Reply:the best answer is not how many trees you can plant to offset what you use. think of how much you can decrease your output by conserving. what you are really saying it if i use a bunch of energy, how many trees do i need to plant? conserve and also plant the trees.
Reply:Hey, check out The Climate Trust. They've got a website and it's a great organization. You could buy a few carbon credits from them (my friend gave me a couple for my birthday). You could also reduce your automobile use if possible (and thus bring down your footprint). Good luck with your project! Rock on
Reply:You would probably need to plant about 250 trees to offset your carbon footprint. You could plat 25 per year if that would be easier.
Another way for you to offset your carbon footprint is to buy carbon credits. There are quite a few web sites that will sell carbon credits and they range in price from about $5-10 per ton.
It is actually much easier to buy credits, or plant trees than to try to cut your output. You can do your best by buying a Prius and the most efficient appliances, but it will not cut down your footprint that much. If you travel by air very much, it really jacks up your carbon output.
Reply:My favorite website for living in a concious manner is
journeytoforever.org. Sustainable agriculture, silvaculture (trees)
renewable fuels and much more is there free of charge.
It is a veritable goldmine of information.
Interested in biodiesel? Dont buy a book. Everything is there - oils - climate requirements- yield per acre - processing and so on.
An amazing website
Using various online caluclators I have calucuated my annual C02 usage to be 24tonnes.
How many broadleaf trees will I have to plant to sequester an equivalent amount of C02 over the next 10 years.
A mixture of oak/ask/birch/pine and other trees native to the UK.
If you want to get really into the nuts and bolts of it you can assume the woodland would be managed and thinned, so the answer might be in terms of hectarage of young saplings.
But I'll take numbers of young trees too if you want to assume woodland would be unthinned.
Any views/wisdom/weblinks appreciated.
How can I offset my annual carbon footprint?
you would have to plant a lot to try to cancel that out. try reducing the amount you drive or simply recycling. every little bit helps!
Reply:the best answer is not how many trees you can plant to offset what you use. think of how much you can decrease your output by conserving. what you are really saying it if i use a bunch of energy, how many trees do i need to plant? conserve and also plant the trees.
Reply:Hey, check out The Climate Trust. They've got a website and it's a great organization. You could buy a few carbon credits from them (my friend gave me a couple for my birthday). You could also reduce your automobile use if possible (and thus bring down your footprint). Good luck with your project! Rock on
Reply:You would probably need to plant about 250 trees to offset your carbon footprint. You could plat 25 per year if that would be easier.
Another way for you to offset your carbon footprint is to buy carbon credits. There are quite a few web sites that will sell carbon credits and they range in price from about $5-10 per ton.
It is actually much easier to buy credits, or plant trees than to try to cut your output. You can do your best by buying a Prius and the most efficient appliances, but it will not cut down your footprint that much. If you travel by air very much, it really jacks up your carbon output.
Reply:My favorite website for living in a concious manner is
journeytoforever.org. Sustainable agriculture, silvaculture (trees)
renewable fuels and much more is there free of charge.
It is a veritable goldmine of information.
Interested in biodiesel? Dont buy a book. Everything is there - oils - climate requirements- yield per acre - processing and so on.
An amazing website
How to repair damage to a lawn caused by glufosinate ammonium?
I have sprayed my lawn with glufosinate ammonium to destroy some broadleaf. Now large patches of brown on the lawn
How long do I have to wait to reseed the lawn
How to repair damage to a lawn caused by glufosinate ammonium?
Depends on the amount of rainfall you get. If you get quite a bit, next year all will be well. Sorry you have to wait so long. The chemist who sold you the product should be able to recommend a neutralizing agent.
Reply:Rake off the dead grass and put compost down and reseed in the fall around October
Reply:You should probably wait for a period of 2 months.. Ironically.. I did the same thing and destroyed some of my plants on the side of the lawn.
Reply:I did the same thing and my lawn is terrible. I expect more answers on that question too. I did it 3 weeks ago and still no hope for recovery. I red in the book that you have to remove the contaminated soil, put a new top soil and seed again. This sounds crazy for me because I have to do almost the whole yard. About 0.5 acre...
Toothache
How long do I have to wait to reseed the lawn
How to repair damage to a lawn caused by glufosinate ammonium?
Depends on the amount of rainfall you get. If you get quite a bit, next year all will be well. Sorry you have to wait so long. The chemist who sold you the product should be able to recommend a neutralizing agent.
Reply:Rake off the dead grass and put compost down and reseed in the fall around October
Reply:You should probably wait for a period of 2 months.. Ironically.. I did the same thing and destroyed some of my plants on the side of the lawn.
Reply:I did the same thing and my lawn is terrible. I expect more answers on that question too. I did it 3 weeks ago and still no hope for recovery. I red in the book that you have to remove the contaminated soil, put a new top soil and seed again. This sounds crazy for me because I have to do almost the whole yard. About 0.5 acre...
Toothache
What does a herbicide with a basis of triazine do?
I'm doing a bio paper on the effects of herbicides in the Patuxent River. I need to know what this particular herbicide does. (i.e. prevent grassy weeds, broadleaf?)
What does a herbicide with a basis of triazine do?
You know, I'll never understand why you kids don't just research this for yourself. It is much faster and at least you know the information is relaible.
I put "triazine herbicide uses" into google and the second site returned gives you all the onformation you needed. You could have done that yourself more easily tha coming here and typing in your question.
Shakes head in disbelief.
"atrazine, a triazine herbicide used in corn and sorghum for control of broadleaf weeds and grasses. Still used because of its low cost and because it works as a synergist when used with other herbicides, it is a photosystem II inhib"
"Atrazine is a triazine herbicide registered for the control of broadleaf weeds and some grassy weeds. Atrazine works by inhibiting photosynthesis.
• Usage on corn accounts for approximately percent of total U.S. domestic usage (in pounds), followed by sorghum at 10 percent and sugarcane at 3 percent. All other uses take up the remaining one percent. About 75 percent of the field corn acres grown in the U.S. is treated with atrazine."
Reply:To prevent germs from invading triazine
What does a herbicide with a basis of triazine do?
You know, I'll never understand why you kids don't just research this for yourself. It is much faster and at least you know the information is relaible.
I put "triazine herbicide uses" into google and the second site returned gives you all the onformation you needed. You could have done that yourself more easily tha coming here and typing in your question.
Shakes head in disbelief.
"atrazine, a triazine herbicide used in corn and sorghum for control of broadleaf weeds and grasses. Still used because of its low cost and because it works as a synergist when used with other herbicides, it is a photosystem II inhib"
"Atrazine is a triazine herbicide registered for the control of broadleaf weeds and some grassy weeds. Atrazine works by inhibiting photosynthesis.
• Usage on corn accounts for approximately percent of total U.S. domestic usage (in pounds), followed by sorghum at 10 percent and sugarcane at 3 percent. All other uses take up the remaining one percent. About 75 percent of the field corn acres grown in the U.S. is treated with atrazine."
Reply:To prevent germs from invading triazine
A question for botonists?
tell me about
Broadleaf plantago
smart weed polygonom
Dandelion Taraxacum
And
Wood sorrel oxalis
A question for botonists?
The Broadleaf Plantain or Greater Plantago (Plantago major) is a member of the plantago family, Plantaginaceae. In North America, this plant is primarily a weed, though it is edible and is used in herbal medicine. The plant is native to Europe, and is believed to be one of the first plants to naturalize in the colonies.
This plant does best in compacted soils, and hence is sometimes called "roadweed". It propagates primarily by seeds, which are held on the long, narrow spikes which rise well above the foliage.
Some cultivars of this plant are used in gardens.
The Plant is commonly found on field boundaries as it is tolerant to pestcides and herbicides. It is wind-pollenated, and a cause of summer allergies when in flower.
Crushed leaves can be applied directly to the skin to stop bleeding, bee stings and insect bites. Psyllium seeds are a bulk laxative.
The leaves are completely edible, but can be somewhat tough. The taste is that of very bitter salad greens with a lingering aftertaste like spinach. Young leaves are recommended as they are more tender. The leaves when dried make a good tea. The sinews from the broadleaf plantain are very pliable and tough when fresh and/or wettened, and can be used to make small cords or braiding. When dry the sinews harden but also become more brittle.
***
Smartweed - Polygonum hydropiperoides (from the family Polygonaceae); the leaves of this plant are alternate with tubelike sheathing stipules (ocrea) and stems with swollen nodes. The flowers have no petals, but the sepals resemble petals. The fruit is an achene.
Smartweed grows in wet meadows, marshes, shorelines of lakes and ponds, and open areas in wet woodlands. It is often found in extensive colonies along shorelines and in exposed bottoms of ponds or lakes during times of low water. It may also grow in drainage and irrigation ditches and canals. The seeds are dispersed by animals or by water.
Dense colonies of P. hydropiperoides can impede water flow in irrigation ditches and restrict recreational activities along shoreline areas. The seeds of smartweed are eaten by birds, waterfowl and several small mammals
***
Dandelion (Taraxacum) is a large genus of flowering plants in the family Asteraceae. They are tap-rooted biennial or perennial herbaceous plants, native to temperate areas of the Northern Hemisphere of the Old World.
The leaves are 5-25 cm long, simple and basal, entire or lobed, forming a rosette above the central taproot. As the leaves grow outward they push down the surrounding vegetation, such as grass in a lawn, killing the vegetation by cutting off the sunlight. A bright yellow flower head (which is open in the daytime but closes at night) is borne singly on a hollow stem (scape) which rises 4-30 cm above the leaves and exudes a milky sap (latex) when broken. A rosette may produce several flowering stems at a time. The flower head is 2-5 cm in diameter and consists entirely of ray florets.
The flower matures into a globe of fine filaments that are usually distributed by wind, carrying away the seed-containing achenes. This globe (receptacle) is called the "dandelion clock", and blowing it apart is a popular pastime for children. In German it's called a Pusteblume, translated as "blow flower". The number of blows required to completely rid the clock of its seeds is deemed to be the time of day. The flower head is surrounded by bracts (sometimes mistakenly called sepals) in two series. The inner bracts are erect until the seeds mature, then flex down to allow the seeds to disperse; the outer bracts are always reflexed downward. Some species drop the "parachute" (called a pappus, modified sepals) from the achenes. Between the pappus and the achene, there is a stalk called beak, which elongates as the fruit matures. The beak breaks off from the achene quite easily.
***
Common wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella) is a plant from the family Oxalidaceae, common in most of Europe and parts of Asia. It flowers for a few months during the spring, with small white flowers with pink streaks. Red or violet flowers also occur rarely. The binomial name Oxalis acetosella is because of its sour taste.
The leaflets are made up by three heart-shaped leaves, folded through the middle. The stalk is red/brown, and during the night or when it rains both flowers and leaves contract.
Historically, people have extracted calcium oxalate, or "sal acetosella" from the plant, through boiling. It is slightly toxic, as oxalic acid is known to interfere with food digestion.
Another common wood sorrel is Oxalis montana, a North American species found from New England and Nova Scotia to Wisconsin and Manitoba. It is similar to the species described above, but the petals are noticeably notched.
The common wood sorrel is sometimes referred to as a shamrock (due to its three-leaf clover-like motif) and given as as gift on St. Patrick's Day.
Broadleaf plantago
smart weed polygonom
Dandelion Taraxacum
And
Wood sorrel oxalis
A question for botonists?
The Broadleaf Plantain or Greater Plantago (Plantago major) is a member of the plantago family, Plantaginaceae. In North America, this plant is primarily a weed, though it is edible and is used in herbal medicine. The plant is native to Europe, and is believed to be one of the first plants to naturalize in the colonies.
This plant does best in compacted soils, and hence is sometimes called "roadweed". It propagates primarily by seeds, which are held on the long, narrow spikes which rise well above the foliage.
Some cultivars of this plant are used in gardens.
The Plant is commonly found on field boundaries as it is tolerant to pestcides and herbicides. It is wind-pollenated, and a cause of summer allergies when in flower.
Crushed leaves can be applied directly to the skin to stop bleeding, bee stings and insect bites. Psyllium seeds are a bulk laxative.
The leaves are completely edible, but can be somewhat tough. The taste is that of very bitter salad greens with a lingering aftertaste like spinach. Young leaves are recommended as they are more tender. The leaves when dried make a good tea. The sinews from the broadleaf plantain are very pliable and tough when fresh and/or wettened, and can be used to make small cords or braiding. When dry the sinews harden but also become more brittle.
***
Smartweed - Polygonum hydropiperoides (from the family Polygonaceae); the leaves of this plant are alternate with tubelike sheathing stipules (ocrea) and stems with swollen nodes. The flowers have no petals, but the sepals resemble petals. The fruit is an achene.
Smartweed grows in wet meadows, marshes, shorelines of lakes and ponds, and open areas in wet woodlands. It is often found in extensive colonies along shorelines and in exposed bottoms of ponds or lakes during times of low water. It may also grow in drainage and irrigation ditches and canals. The seeds are dispersed by animals or by water.
Dense colonies of P. hydropiperoides can impede water flow in irrigation ditches and restrict recreational activities along shoreline areas. The seeds of smartweed are eaten by birds, waterfowl and several small mammals
***
Dandelion (Taraxacum) is a large genus of flowering plants in the family Asteraceae. They are tap-rooted biennial or perennial herbaceous plants, native to temperate areas of the Northern Hemisphere of the Old World.
The leaves are 5-25 cm long, simple and basal, entire or lobed, forming a rosette above the central taproot. As the leaves grow outward they push down the surrounding vegetation, such as grass in a lawn, killing the vegetation by cutting off the sunlight. A bright yellow flower head (which is open in the daytime but closes at night) is borne singly on a hollow stem (scape) which rises 4-30 cm above the leaves and exudes a milky sap (latex) when broken. A rosette may produce several flowering stems at a time. The flower head is 2-5 cm in diameter and consists entirely of ray florets.
The flower matures into a globe of fine filaments that are usually distributed by wind, carrying away the seed-containing achenes. This globe (receptacle) is called the "dandelion clock", and blowing it apart is a popular pastime for children. In German it's called a Pusteblume, translated as "blow flower". The number of blows required to completely rid the clock of its seeds is deemed to be the time of day. The flower head is surrounded by bracts (sometimes mistakenly called sepals) in two series. The inner bracts are erect until the seeds mature, then flex down to allow the seeds to disperse; the outer bracts are always reflexed downward. Some species drop the "parachute" (called a pappus, modified sepals) from the achenes. Between the pappus and the achene, there is a stalk called beak, which elongates as the fruit matures. The beak breaks off from the achene quite easily.
***
Common wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella) is a plant from the family Oxalidaceae, common in most of Europe and parts of Asia. It flowers for a few months during the spring, with small white flowers with pink streaks. Red or violet flowers also occur rarely. The binomial name Oxalis acetosella is because of its sour taste.
The leaflets are made up by three heart-shaped leaves, folded through the middle. The stalk is red/brown, and during the night or when it rains both flowers and leaves contract.
Historically, people have extracted calcium oxalate, or "sal acetosella" from the plant, through boiling. It is slightly toxic, as oxalic acid is known to interfere with food digestion.
Another common wood sorrel is Oxalis montana, a North American species found from New England and Nova Scotia to Wisconsin and Manitoba. It is similar to the species described above, but the petals are noticeably notched.
The common wood sorrel is sometimes referred to as a shamrock (due to its three-leaf clover-like motif) and given as as gift on St. Patrick's Day.
Will Dicamba in Weed Control prevent from Weed Sprouting?
I read that a chemical called Dicamba (found in such products as Liquid Weed n'Feed) is used to control broadleaf weeds before and after they sprout. From what i understand chemicals like 2,4D is only good after they sprout (you would use 2,4D on these weeds leaves to kill them) and so was surprised to come across diacamba. Are there consquences to using this substance (assumign it si available in Canada) on my lawn?
Or will it kill my lawn in the process of killing the weeds too?
Will Dicamba in Weed Control prevent from Weed Sprouting?
If the seed is in place but has not germinated, yes dicamba will prevent the seed from growing. However, if the seed finds its way there after the treatment, it will still germinate. (unless the product you buy states it does have a residual effect)
Or will it kill my lawn in the process of killing the weeds too?
Will Dicamba in Weed Control prevent from Weed Sprouting?
If the seed is in place but has not germinated, yes dicamba will prevent the seed from growing. However, if the seed finds its way there after the treatment, it will still germinate. (unless the product you buy states it does have a residual effect)
The Giraffe Proposal..?
a rancher in the American West wants to increase the economic productivity of his land, which is short-grass prairie and shrubs. importing African giraffe would be perfect, he thought. they eat the tough, thorny shrubs that cattle dont eat, so both species could be raised on the same land. Fortunately, he has adequate water to support these extra grazers, as giraffe drink only a little.
it would surely be easy to market the meat - as raf-burgers, may be? he is ready to form a new corportation and offer stock for sale. "longneckers" would be a good name, wouldn't it? or, may be could sell the excess animals to zoos and wild animals parks.
you, have been called in for consultation because you know about the arid environment and the native species in the area in which he plans to raise the giraffe. these include the lark bunting (a bird that nests in the shrubs and feeds on grasshoppers), and pronghorn (which eat broadleaf plants, especially sagebrush)
The Giraffe Proposal..?
about grasshoppers, it shows that when there is more grass it lowers grasshoppers. “For the most common pest species, grazing resulted in slower grasshopper development, lower survival rates, fewer adults, and less time for surviving adults to lay eggs for the next year.
Slower grasshopper development also reduces the amount of vegetation consumed by grasshoppers”.
Reply:first of all giraffes do not feed on shrubs and grass but on tree leaves.
next they do not spread their populiation quickly.
It is not a good plan.
try goats instead :)
Reply:Bad idea for all the reasons already stated. And who in their right mind would want to kill and eat giraffes.
Reply:Sorry but this is too simplistic. Few things other than pronghorn can eat sage brush. Will the Giraffe eat it? Sage brush is also too short for the giraffes to feed well on it. In fact they would have great difficulty.
domain names
it would surely be easy to market the meat - as raf-burgers, may be? he is ready to form a new corportation and offer stock for sale. "longneckers" would be a good name, wouldn't it? or, may be could sell the excess animals to zoos and wild animals parks.
you, have been called in for consultation because you know about the arid environment and the native species in the area in which he plans to raise the giraffe. these include the lark bunting (a bird that nests in the shrubs and feeds on grasshoppers), and pronghorn (which eat broadleaf plants, especially sagebrush)
The Giraffe Proposal..?
about grasshoppers, it shows that when there is more grass it lowers grasshoppers. “For the most common pest species, grazing resulted in slower grasshopper development, lower survival rates, fewer adults, and less time for surviving adults to lay eggs for the next year.
Slower grasshopper development also reduces the amount of vegetation consumed by grasshoppers”.
Reply:first of all giraffes do not feed on shrubs and grass but on tree leaves.
next they do not spread their populiation quickly.
It is not a good plan.
try goats instead :)
Reply:Bad idea for all the reasons already stated. And who in their right mind would want to kill and eat giraffes.
Reply:Sorry but this is too simplistic. Few things other than pronghorn can eat sage brush. Will the Giraffe eat it? Sage brush is also too short for the giraffes to feed well on it. In fact they would have great difficulty.
domain names
Has anybody tried Spectracide Weed Stop 2x RTS? The one that attaches to your hose? Does it work?
It promises control of broadleaf weeds like clover and dandelion, (both of which are infesting my lawn) but I also need something that kills crabgrass. I also may have Creeping Charlie, but I'm not sure, since I hadn't heard of it before I used a weed-identifying program. Thanks, I appreciate any help and advice!!
Has anybody tried Spectracide Weed Stop 2x RTS? The one that attaches to your hose? Does it work?
Spectracide products promise a lot of things, but following their promises are usually asteriks******, make sure you turn the product over and search for what the asteriks indicate.
As far as products to use for your situation, this is what I have used in the past:
Broadleaf Weeds-Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max
Tough Weeds such as clover, creeping charlie(ground Ivy)- Ortho Weed-B-Gon for Chickweed, clover, oxalis(tough weeds)
Crabgrass- Ortho makes a Weed-B-Gon Plus Crabgrass control, which is new for 2007. This product will take care of over 250 weeds, plus crabgrass, now the only downside is that it is only available in ready to use formula, it is not yet produced in a hose end sprayer or concentrate. Ortho also make a pint concentrate of just crabgrass killer.
All of the above products I have used and they all do what they promise, unlike many other brands.
Good Luck in your weed killing adventure, it sounds like you have a battle in front of you!
Reply:yes it works! i use weed-b-gone but the one u got works just as well! for the crabgrass.. get weed-b-gone max w/ crabgrass control... they don't have it in the form of the bottle that attaches to ur hose yet so u'll have to manually spray it! good luck!
Has anybody tried Spectracide Weed Stop 2x RTS? The one that attaches to your hose? Does it work?
Spectracide products promise a lot of things, but following their promises are usually asteriks******, make sure you turn the product over and search for what the asteriks indicate.
As far as products to use for your situation, this is what I have used in the past:
Broadleaf Weeds-Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max
Tough Weeds such as clover, creeping charlie(ground Ivy)- Ortho Weed-B-Gon for Chickweed, clover, oxalis(tough weeds)
Crabgrass- Ortho makes a Weed-B-Gon Plus Crabgrass control, which is new for 2007. This product will take care of over 250 weeds, plus crabgrass, now the only downside is that it is only available in ready to use formula, it is not yet produced in a hose end sprayer or concentrate. Ortho also make a pint concentrate of just crabgrass killer.
All of the above products I have used and they all do what they promise, unlike many other brands.
Good Luck in your weed killing adventure, it sounds like you have a battle in front of you!
Reply:yes it works! i use weed-b-gone but the one u got works just as well! for the crabgrass.. get weed-b-gone max w/ crabgrass control... they don't have it in the form of the bottle that attaches to ur hose yet so u'll have to manually spray it! good luck!
Has anybody tried Spectracide Weed Stop 2x RTS? The one that attaches to your hose? Does it work?
It promises control of broadleaf weeds like clover and dandelion, (both of which are infesting my lawn) but I also need something that kills crabgrass. I also may have Creeping Charlie, but I'm not sure, since I hadn't heard of it before I used a weed-identifying program. Thanks, I appreciate any help and advice!!
Has anybody tried Spectracide Weed Stop 2x RTS? The one that attaches to your hose? Does it work?
Spectracide products promise a lot of things, but following their promises are usually asteriks******, make sure you turn the product over and search for what the asteriks indicate.
As far as products to use for your situation, this is what I have used in the past:
Broadleaf Weeds-Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max
Tough Weeds such as clover, creeping charlie(ground Ivy)- Ortho Weed-B-Gon for Chickweed, clover, oxalis(tough weeds)
Crabgrass- Ortho makes a Weed-B-Gon Plus Crabgrass control, which is new for 2007. This product will take care of over 250 weeds, plus crabgrass, now the only downside is that it is only available in ready to use formula, it is not yet produced in a hose end sprayer or concentrate. Ortho also make a pint concentrate of just crabgrass killer.
All of the above products I have used and they all do what they promise, unlike many other brands.
Good Luck in your weed killing adventure, it sounds like you have a battle in front of you!
Reply:yes it works! i use weed-b-gone but the one u got works just as well! for the crabgrass.. get weed-b-gone max w/ crabgrass control... they don't have it in the form of the bottle that attaches to ur hose yet so u'll have to manually spray it! good luck!
Has anybody tried Spectracide Weed Stop 2x RTS? The one that attaches to your hose? Does it work?
Spectracide products promise a lot of things, but following their promises are usually asteriks******, make sure you turn the product over and search for what the asteriks indicate.
As far as products to use for your situation, this is what I have used in the past:
Broadleaf Weeds-Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max
Tough Weeds such as clover, creeping charlie(ground Ivy)- Ortho Weed-B-Gon for Chickweed, clover, oxalis(tough weeds)
Crabgrass- Ortho makes a Weed-B-Gon Plus Crabgrass control, which is new for 2007. This product will take care of over 250 weeds, plus crabgrass, now the only downside is that it is only available in ready to use formula, it is not yet produced in a hose end sprayer or concentrate. Ortho also make a pint concentrate of just crabgrass killer.
All of the above products I have used and they all do what they promise, unlike many other brands.
Good Luck in your weed killing adventure, it sounds like you have a battle in front of you!
Reply:yes it works! i use weed-b-gone but the one u got works just as well! for the crabgrass.. get weed-b-gone max w/ crabgrass control... they don't have it in the form of the bottle that attaches to ur hose yet so u'll have to manually spray it! good luck!
Matching biology??
a. savannah
b. temerate broadleaf forest
c. tundra
d. chaparral
e. coniferous forest
Possesses permafrost and is dominated by short shrubs and grasses; endures long, dark winters
Dominated by dense evergreen shrubs and other plants adapted to periodic fires
Has long, cold winters and short summers; a biome that is dominated by gymnosperms
Home to large herbivores and their predators, marked by grasses and scattered trees
NEW SET
a. inner mitochondrial membrane
b. the cytosol
c. thylakoid membranes
d. ribosome
e. nucleus
Where mRNA is translated into proteins
Where DNA is replicated prior to cell division
Where chlorophyll is located
The location of glycolysis
Matching biology??
c. Tundra possess permafrost
d. chaparral is dominated by dense evergreen shrubs
e. Coniferous forest has long cold winters
a. Savannah is home to large herbivores
d ribosomes translate mRNA
e. nucleus is where DNA is replicated
c. Thylakoid membranes contain chlorophyll
b glycolysis occurs in the cytosol.
b. temerate broadleaf forest
c. tundra
d. chaparral
e. coniferous forest
Possesses permafrost and is dominated by short shrubs and grasses; endures long, dark winters
Dominated by dense evergreen shrubs and other plants adapted to periodic fires
Has long, cold winters and short summers; a biome that is dominated by gymnosperms
Home to large herbivores and their predators, marked by grasses and scattered trees
NEW SET
a. inner mitochondrial membrane
b. the cytosol
c. thylakoid membranes
d. ribosome
e. nucleus
Where mRNA is translated into proteins
Where DNA is replicated prior to cell division
Where chlorophyll is located
The location of glycolysis
Matching biology??
c. Tundra possess permafrost
d. chaparral is dominated by dense evergreen shrubs
e. Coniferous forest has long cold winters
a. Savannah is home to large herbivores
d ribosomes translate mRNA
e. nucleus is where DNA is replicated
c. Thylakoid membranes contain chlorophyll
b glycolysis occurs in the cytosol.
Recommendations on renovation of lawn?
I think there are a lot of broad leaf weeds like, clover, dandelions, henbit, and some other stuff, there are some pics of some below. The rest is a mixture of fescue in shaded areas and bermuda grass in sunny areas.
(btw, what is that type of weed in pic below called?)
i was thinking maybe either pre emergent now to prevent crabgrass , however, i am thinking maybe i will just skip that in order that i may seed and fertilize and try to get the grass growing stronger , than come back and apply a post emergent herbicide to ALL the weeds, broadleaf and crabgrass , etc.
which is better you think?
Recommendations on renovation of lawn?
Your picture did not come through on the question site.
Renovation is different than Re-Doing. Post emergence on all weeds means Re-Doing and should be done before any seeding. You Re-Do when the weeds are greater than you can accept or twenty percent of the turf.
Perhaps I can help. Send picture of weed and total landscape/turf to gjgjobs@yahoo.com. I can outline a program of action for you.
Reply:Hoo boy.
I suggest that you spray the entire lawn with a safe weed killer, before anything seeds.
You'll be forever trying to get rid of just the weeds.
When it has turned completely brown, (you might consider mowing and possibly raking), then reseed with new grass of your choice. Keep watered if sparse rain.
If you live in a hot southern clime, consider Bermuda. This has to be planted in sprigs. It should spread pretty well by mid summer.
Reply:Take a look in the archives
Reply:You can use a pre-emergent weedkiller anytime.
I would suggest you check out JerryBaker.com
You'll probably get more info than you need, but it's a very informative site.
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(btw, what is that type of weed in pic below called?)
i was thinking maybe either pre emergent now to prevent crabgrass , however, i am thinking maybe i will just skip that in order that i may seed and fertilize and try to get the grass growing stronger , than come back and apply a post emergent herbicide to ALL the weeds, broadleaf and crabgrass , etc.
which is better you think?
Recommendations on renovation of lawn?
Your picture did not come through on the question site.
Renovation is different than Re-Doing. Post emergence on all weeds means Re-Doing and should be done before any seeding. You Re-Do when the weeds are greater than you can accept or twenty percent of the turf.
Perhaps I can help. Send picture of weed and total landscape/turf to gjgjobs@yahoo.com. I can outline a program of action for you.
Reply:Hoo boy.
I suggest that you spray the entire lawn with a safe weed killer, before anything seeds.
You'll be forever trying to get rid of just the weeds.
When it has turned completely brown, (you might consider mowing and possibly raking), then reseed with new grass of your choice. Keep watered if sparse rain.
If you live in a hot southern clime, consider Bermuda. This has to be planted in sprigs. It should spread pretty well by mid summer.
Reply:Take a look in the archives
Reply:You can use a pre-emergent weedkiller anytime.
I would suggest you check out JerryBaker.com
You'll probably get more info than you need, but it's a very informative site.
golf shoes plus
Questions about Grass Seed and Herbacides??
I killed my entire lawn (well, really broadleaf weeds mostly) with Round up Herbacide last spring and after it turned completely brown, I ran a core aerator over the entire area and then spread out tall fescue seed and then starter ferlizer. I followed the recommendation for the amount of seed. And luckily for me, it rained every other day for 2 weeks after that, so I was expecting great lawn. However, I recieved about half weeds (different then before) which looked almost like crabgrass or dallas grass, maybe it was. So eventually when summer came , you know what happened. So I am stuck with a weedy lawn again.
Where did I go wrong? What should I do this year to get a nice lawn established?
Questions about Grass Seed and Herbacides??
The easiest and quickest was to a great looking lawn is to get sod professionally installed.
In the past, I have personally manually removed all broadleaf weeds (the best result for me and it lasted longer). It is best done when the weed is small and begins to flower (Flower=Seeds).You do need a chemical to get rid of crabgrass as it spreads through runners! So if you manually remove a clump of crabcrass you have to make sure you get all the roots! Which is a PITA.
Watch the quality of your lawn seed!!! Some brands have a high percentage of weed seeds.
Scotts has some great lawncare products that I recommend you do some research on - as they have pre-emergants and fertilizers with Crabgrass controls. I personally can't use those things so have discovered other alternatives. :)
Good Luck on your lawn this year!!
Reply:Round up is non-selective herbicide which means it will kill almost anything it comes in contact with. If you bought a poor grade of grass seed there may have been some weed seeds mixed in (called chaff). If you were to use a pre - mergent, it needs to be applied in the spring when the ground temp is below 50 degrees. I don't know where you live, but here in Minnesota that would be early May. Also to keep your weeds down use a product with the active ingredient Trimec in it, and spray the weeds as they come up. Good luck
Tim
Reply:The weeds grew faster than the grass and over took it. You followed the seeding directions but you may wish to seed even heavier this fall and hope the grass will choke out the weeds. You can spot treat the weeds with roundup and put down a preemergent herbicide if your not going to add more new seed that is.
Reply:Round up kills the growing weeds, it does nothing for the weed seeds still in the ground. Now that your fescue is growing, use a pre-emergant this spring to deal with the annual weeds, the kind that you spread out with a push spreader and water in. This will prevent weed seeds from germinating at all. Then get the perennial weeds with the appropriate spray. Don't go getting it from WalMart, go to a real garden center and ask them for the best spray to use on a fescue lawn, and if you can take a few of the weeds to show them what you have, that'd be best.
Reply:You also needed to put out a pre-emergence to keep the weed seed from popping up. But that would mean you have to lay sod down. Go to a good local garden store and they should be able to help you.
Reply:roundup (glyphosate) is not a selective weedkiller which is why the whole lot went brown. chances are you had some weed seeds in the soil, which were not affected by the roundup as it is only taken into the plant by the leaves. also what are your neighbours gardens like? its a never ending battle if you are surrounded by neglected meadows, because the seed will end up all over your lawn anyway. There may well have been weed seed in the grass seed also. unless you are planning many an hour of hand weeding or repeated pesticide application you might be better off keeping the grass short and tolerating the odd weed. Alternatively turf the lot with the most expensive seed grown turf you can find.
Where did I go wrong? What should I do this year to get a nice lawn established?
Questions about Grass Seed and Herbacides??
The easiest and quickest was to a great looking lawn is to get sod professionally installed.
In the past, I have personally manually removed all broadleaf weeds (the best result for me and it lasted longer). It is best done when the weed is small and begins to flower (Flower=Seeds).You do need a chemical to get rid of crabgrass as it spreads through runners! So if you manually remove a clump of crabcrass you have to make sure you get all the roots! Which is a PITA.
Watch the quality of your lawn seed!!! Some brands have a high percentage of weed seeds.
Scotts has some great lawncare products that I recommend you do some research on - as they have pre-emergants and fertilizers with Crabgrass controls. I personally can't use those things so have discovered other alternatives. :)
Good Luck on your lawn this year!!
Reply:Round up is non-selective herbicide which means it will kill almost anything it comes in contact with. If you bought a poor grade of grass seed there may have been some weed seeds mixed in (called chaff). If you were to use a pre - mergent, it needs to be applied in the spring when the ground temp is below 50 degrees. I don't know where you live, but here in Minnesota that would be early May. Also to keep your weeds down use a product with the active ingredient Trimec in it, and spray the weeds as they come up. Good luck
Tim
Reply:The weeds grew faster than the grass and over took it. You followed the seeding directions but you may wish to seed even heavier this fall and hope the grass will choke out the weeds. You can spot treat the weeds with roundup and put down a preemergent herbicide if your not going to add more new seed that is.
Reply:Round up kills the growing weeds, it does nothing for the weed seeds still in the ground. Now that your fescue is growing, use a pre-emergant this spring to deal with the annual weeds, the kind that you spread out with a push spreader and water in. This will prevent weed seeds from germinating at all. Then get the perennial weeds with the appropriate spray. Don't go getting it from WalMart, go to a real garden center and ask them for the best spray to use on a fescue lawn, and if you can take a few of the weeds to show them what you have, that'd be best.
Reply:You also needed to put out a pre-emergence to keep the weed seed from popping up. But that would mean you have to lay sod down. Go to a good local garden store and they should be able to help you.
Reply:roundup (glyphosate) is not a selective weedkiller which is why the whole lot went brown. chances are you had some weed seeds in the soil, which were not affected by the roundup as it is only taken into the plant by the leaves. also what are your neighbours gardens like? its a never ending battle if you are surrounded by neglected meadows, because the seed will end up all over your lawn anyway. There may well have been weed seed in the grass seed also. unless you are planning many an hour of hand weeding or repeated pesticide application you might be better off keeping the grass short and tolerating the odd weed. Alternatively turf the lot with the most expensive seed grown turf you can find.
What are the different liquid herbacides that you can spray on weeds in your lawn?
Which ones are effective against broadleaf weeds? when and how do you apply it?
Which ones are effective against grasslike weeds? when and how do you apply it?
Also what do you use on weeds growing in between liorope and mondo grass?
What weeds growing in groundcovers?
Thanks for your answers.
What are the different liquid herbacides that you can spray on weeds in your lawn?
You'll want a broad-leaf selective weedkiller that contains 24-D. It's a growth hormone that effectively grows the broad-leaves to death. In the UK you can buy what's known as "weed and feed" that is formulated in granules to spread on the lawn to take care of the broad-leaf weeds and give the grass a boost.
Most grasses are what are known as monocots while the broad-leafs are dicots. Most strap like leaved plants/weeds will not be effected by a broad-leaf killer.
Alternatively make up a cardboard collar to go around your weed and spray or paint it with glyphosate or any systemic weedkiller. The collar should protect the surrounding plants as glyphosate will kill ALL plants, it is really good though!
Hope that helps a bit.
Reply:Round-up or Weed be Gone are good for spraying on weeds. Don't do it on a windy day. I spray in the middle of the weed close to the ground. It will kill the grass, so be careful.
Reply:all can say is that weedkillers that contain glyphosate are very effective at killing perennial plants.
i think it's safe when dry in areas that animals are.
it travels down to the roots, killing the whole plant and is apparently inactivated when it comes into contact with the soil.
Which ones are effective against grasslike weeds? when and how do you apply it?
Also what do you use on weeds growing in between liorope and mondo grass?
What weeds growing in groundcovers?
Thanks for your answers.
What are the different liquid herbacides that you can spray on weeds in your lawn?
You'll want a broad-leaf selective weedkiller that contains 24-D. It's a growth hormone that effectively grows the broad-leaves to death. In the UK you can buy what's known as "weed and feed" that is formulated in granules to spread on the lawn to take care of the broad-leaf weeds and give the grass a boost.
Most grasses are what are known as monocots while the broad-leafs are dicots. Most strap like leaved plants/weeds will not be effected by a broad-leaf killer.
Alternatively make up a cardboard collar to go around your weed and spray or paint it with glyphosate or any systemic weedkiller. The collar should protect the surrounding plants as glyphosate will kill ALL plants, it is really good though!
Hope that helps a bit.
Reply:Round-up or Weed be Gone are good for spraying on weeds. Don't do it on a windy day. I spray in the middle of the weed close to the ground. It will kill the grass, so be careful.
Reply:all can say is that weedkillers that contain glyphosate are very effective at killing perennial plants.
i think it's safe when dry in areas that animals are.
it travels down to the roots, killing the whole plant and is apparently inactivated when it comes into contact with the soil.
Will the Northeast US look more like Pacific Northwest with GLOBAL WARMING?
Because of global warming and increased temperatures and increased humidity and increased precipitation...will New England get a Pacific Northwest feel? Like Washigton?
I mean it will be warmer, milder, wetter...so will the forests change from broadleaf to conifers and redwoods and will everything be green and mossy?
Will the Northeast US look more like Pacific Northwest with GLOBAL WARMING?
No. For several reasons.
1.) soils. The parent material can't change...ever. Much of the PNW has volcanic soils and other types that we just don't have....
2.) The ocean, and mountains. Much of the weather in the north east comes from the Midwestern states, the northwest receives the bulk of their weather from the ocean. The costal range, traps that moisture and drops it as its pushed over those mountains. Although some places in Upstate new york may get lake effect snow (from the great lakes), it would be very difficult to increase inland weather patterns as much as your suggesting. And the Northeast is plenty wet already: The northeast's average rainfall exceeds Washington's average rainfall, by a lot. The majority of Washington and Oregon is quite dry http://www.betweenwaters.com/etc/usrain.... .
3.) What about the south east? The south east is milder, more humid, and (in areas) gets more precipitation. The trees from the southeast are more likely to travel northward, than the PSW trees are likely to travel westward.
There are many computer models already developed to simulate forest cover type changes... and for the most part, trees move south to north, and low elevations to higher elevations.
Pines are more conducive to dry soils, and are often found with oaks. And we have them. We also have firs (balsam fir, in the north), hemlocks, spruce... but unfortunately no redwoods.
Also, most of the trees in the rainforest are broadleaved trees... it is difficult to generalize types of trees based on climate.
Reply:It is the life, we are melting since last glaciations.
Reply:I think the warming of the 20th century has peaked and will be noticeably cooler in the next 30 years, based on the NASA long range solar forecast.
http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2006/...
http://www.space.com/scienceastronomy/su...
Reply:um no, the pacific northwest qualifies as a non tropical rainforest.. because they get a lot more rain than new england, mainly because its proximity to the pacific ocean, and the flow of weather systems. Chances are you wont notice any differences at all.
I mean it will be warmer, milder, wetter...so will the forests change from broadleaf to conifers and redwoods and will everything be green and mossy?
Will the Northeast US look more like Pacific Northwest with GLOBAL WARMING?
No. For several reasons.
1.) soils. The parent material can't change...ever. Much of the PNW has volcanic soils and other types that we just don't have....
2.) The ocean, and mountains. Much of the weather in the north east comes from the Midwestern states, the northwest receives the bulk of their weather from the ocean. The costal range, traps that moisture and drops it as its pushed over those mountains. Although some places in Upstate new york may get lake effect snow (from the great lakes), it would be very difficult to increase inland weather patterns as much as your suggesting. And the Northeast is plenty wet already: The northeast's average rainfall exceeds Washington's average rainfall, by a lot. The majority of Washington and Oregon is quite dry http://www.betweenwaters.com/etc/usrain.... .
3.) What about the south east? The south east is milder, more humid, and (in areas) gets more precipitation. The trees from the southeast are more likely to travel northward, than the PSW trees are likely to travel westward.
There are many computer models already developed to simulate forest cover type changes... and for the most part, trees move south to north, and low elevations to higher elevations.
Pines are more conducive to dry soils, and are often found with oaks. And we have them. We also have firs (balsam fir, in the north), hemlocks, spruce... but unfortunately no redwoods.
Also, most of the trees in the rainforest are broadleaved trees... it is difficult to generalize types of trees based on climate.
Reply:It is the life, we are melting since last glaciations.
Reply:I think the warming of the 20th century has peaked and will be noticeably cooler in the next 30 years, based on the NASA long range solar forecast.
http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2006/...
http://www.space.com/scienceastronomy/su...
Reply:um no, the pacific northwest qualifies as a non tropical rainforest.. because they get a lot more rain than new england, mainly because its proximity to the pacific ocean, and the flow of weather systems. Chances are you wont notice any differences at all.
Is it generally true that spring is the best time for controlling weeds and Fall is the best time for seeding?
I think it is quite difficult to overseed in the Spring when you have to spread out crabgrass prevention as well as spray for broadleaf weeds later in the spring.
Is it generally true that spring is the best time for controlling weeds and Fall is the best time for seeding?
If I had a choice between the two, I would seed in the fall.
Seeding in the spring, depending where you live, leads to a lot of extra watering as you move into the hot and dry weather, having a lawn that is not fully established, and can't take as much stress. Seeding in the fall, the weather is cooler, the water needs are less, then the lawn goes dormant through winter, and begins growing again very early in spring, and by the time hot summer arrives, it's ready for it.
If you're willing to do the extra watering, you can overseed anytime (though I don't recommend trying to seed in hto weather)
Reply:True. You grass seed grows better in the fall when seeded in the middle of September, and it has all winter long to establish roots before the heat of the summer. It is the optimum time for grass seeding. You can overseed in the spring if you use a crabgrass preventer containing the chemical Siduron, but it is more expensive than the regular crabgrass preventer. Scotts has this.
http://www.american-lawns.com/problems/w...
The best time to kill broadleaf weeds is in early summer, but there is also a fall application for chickweed and henbit.
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden...
Here is a good website for total lawn care that should answer all your questions:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=ho...
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Is it generally true that spring is the best time for controlling weeds and Fall is the best time for seeding?
If I had a choice between the two, I would seed in the fall.
Seeding in the spring, depending where you live, leads to a lot of extra watering as you move into the hot and dry weather, having a lawn that is not fully established, and can't take as much stress. Seeding in the fall, the weather is cooler, the water needs are less, then the lawn goes dormant through winter, and begins growing again very early in spring, and by the time hot summer arrives, it's ready for it.
If you're willing to do the extra watering, you can overseed anytime (though I don't recommend trying to seed in hto weather)
Reply:True. You grass seed grows better in the fall when seeded in the middle of September, and it has all winter long to establish roots before the heat of the summer. It is the optimum time for grass seeding. You can overseed in the spring if you use a crabgrass preventer containing the chemical Siduron, but it is more expensive than the regular crabgrass preventer. Scotts has this.
http://www.american-lawns.com/problems/w...
The best time to kill broadleaf weeds is in early summer, but there is also a fall application for chickweed and henbit.
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden...
Here is a good website for total lawn care that should answer all your questions:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=ho...
football cleats shoes
I live in Nashville, Tennessee and was wanting to know if it will be too late to seed fescue around Halloween?
I sprayed some broadleaf weed spray on the lawn yesterday, and understand that I have to now wait 3 weeks before seeding.
Is it maybe possible to only wait 2 weeks btw?
I dont know when we usually get are first frost, but I know this summer has been very unusually hot and we are still getting very warm weather 90 degrees today.
I live in Nashville, Tennessee and was wanting to know if it will be too late to seed fescue around Halloween?
It will be very difficult to get good germination that late. I would go ahead and seed it right now and not worry about the weed killer. Your chances of getting good germination and a nice lawn for the winter are much better breaking the 3-week-rule than by breaking the Overseeding Should Really Be Done By September 30th Rule (+ 4 weeks). If you have very thin existing grass, rent a dethatcher from a tool rental place, and run it over the lawn in one direction. Then apply your Fescue seed. Then run the dethatcher back over the lawn in a different pattern, perpendicular to the first direction.
One other thing: the later you wait, the more you should mix a little Perennial Rye seed in with the Fescue. It will probably die next summer, but it will help a late-seeded Fescue lawn look better over the winter. It can germinate at lower soil temps than can Fescue.
Reply:Fescue Care
Turf-type fescues are improved fescue varieties. ... WATER REQUIREMENTS: After sowing Fescue seed, do not allow the seed bed to dry out. ...www.pikenursery.com/stories_php_loc_0... - 31k - Cached
Grass sowing and coverage guide, for all Grass Seed varieties, from Clyst Valley Seeds, Exeter
Clyst Valley Seeds, Clyst St Mary, Exeter, specialises in a full range of top grass varieties for landscaping ... Creeping Red Fescue. 10% Highland Browntop ...www.clystvalleyseeds.co.uk/lawns.htm - 14k - Cached
Tall Fescue On-line Monograph
... pasture sowing dates for the area should be used for tall fescue, but with ... east Queensland, May is the best month for sowing tall fescue (Lowe et al., 1981) ...forages.oregonstate.edu/is/tfis/...?p... - 20k - Cached
Differential Sowing Time of Turfgrass Species Affects the Establishment of Mixtures -- Larsen et al. 44 (4): 1315...
... effect of sowing Kentucky bluegrass earlier than red fescue and perennial ... Delayed sowing of red fescue and perennial ryegrass significantly improved the ...crop.scijournals.org/cgi/content/full... - 109k
Cotswold Grass Seeds - Organic Environmental Stewardship. ELS, HLS and cross compliance schemes for margins, buffer ...
If sowing a six metre margin it is recommended to leave the outer two or three ... 55% certified ORGANIC meadow fescue. 5% certified red fescue ...www.cotswoldseeds.com/orgenvironmenta... - 20k - Cached
Fescue Toxicosis, AGF-008-92
Tall fescue will persist on low pH, low fertility soils, however, ... the first tall fescue established in the U.S. was by sowing infected seed from Europe. ...ohioline.osu.edu/agf-fact/0008.html - 9k - Cached
bestgardening.com Sowing a New Lawn
bestgardening.com, features, practical how-to pages, gardens to visit, design ideas, plants, ... Chewings Fescue and 50% Hard Fescue. Sowing the Seed ...www.bestgardening.com/bgc/howto/lawns...
Reply:You don't have to wait 3 weeks, unless, of course, you want the seed to sprout.
Fescue, huh? I'd recommend that you keep the livestock out of that pasture until the seed has gotten a good hold.
Reply:best to sow when weather starts to warm up in uk mid april to september,not sure of your weather calender,grass seed dosent really grow october to march so you will be wasting your money ,after rainfall you should be ok seed,
Is it maybe possible to only wait 2 weeks btw?
I dont know when we usually get are first frost, but I know this summer has been very unusually hot and we are still getting very warm weather 90 degrees today.
I live in Nashville, Tennessee and was wanting to know if it will be too late to seed fescue around Halloween?
It will be very difficult to get good germination that late. I would go ahead and seed it right now and not worry about the weed killer. Your chances of getting good germination and a nice lawn for the winter are much better breaking the 3-week-rule than by breaking the Overseeding Should Really Be Done By September 30th Rule (+ 4 weeks). If you have very thin existing grass, rent a dethatcher from a tool rental place, and run it over the lawn in one direction. Then apply your Fescue seed. Then run the dethatcher back over the lawn in a different pattern, perpendicular to the first direction.
One other thing: the later you wait, the more you should mix a little Perennial Rye seed in with the Fescue. It will probably die next summer, but it will help a late-seeded Fescue lawn look better over the winter. It can germinate at lower soil temps than can Fescue.
Reply:Fescue Care
Turf-type fescues are improved fescue varieties. ... WATER REQUIREMENTS: After sowing Fescue seed, do not allow the seed bed to dry out. ...www.pikenursery.com/stories_php_loc_0... - 31k - Cached
Grass sowing and coverage guide, for all Grass Seed varieties, from Clyst Valley Seeds, Exeter
Clyst Valley Seeds, Clyst St Mary, Exeter, specialises in a full range of top grass varieties for landscaping ... Creeping Red Fescue. 10% Highland Browntop ...www.clystvalleyseeds.co.uk/lawns.htm - 14k - Cached
Tall Fescue On-line Monograph
... pasture sowing dates for the area should be used for tall fescue, but with ... east Queensland, May is the best month for sowing tall fescue (Lowe et al., 1981) ...forages.oregonstate.edu/is/tfis/...?p... - 20k - Cached
Differential Sowing Time of Turfgrass Species Affects the Establishment of Mixtures -- Larsen et al. 44 (4): 1315...
... effect of sowing Kentucky bluegrass earlier than red fescue and perennial ... Delayed sowing of red fescue and perennial ryegrass significantly improved the ...crop.scijournals.org/cgi/content/full... - 109k
Cotswold Grass Seeds - Organic Environmental Stewardship. ELS, HLS and cross compliance schemes for margins, buffer ...
If sowing a six metre margin it is recommended to leave the outer two or three ... 55% certified ORGANIC meadow fescue. 5% certified red fescue ...www.cotswoldseeds.com/orgenvironmenta... - 20k - Cached
Fescue Toxicosis, AGF-008-92
Tall fescue will persist on low pH, low fertility soils, however, ... the first tall fescue established in the U.S. was by sowing infected seed from Europe. ...ohioline.osu.edu/agf-fact/0008.html - 9k - Cached
bestgardening.com Sowing a New Lawn
bestgardening.com, features, practical how-to pages, gardens to visit, design ideas, plants, ... Chewings Fescue and 50% Hard Fescue. Sowing the Seed ...www.bestgardening.com/bgc/howto/lawns...
Reply:You don't have to wait 3 weeks, unless, of course, you want the seed to sprout.
Fescue, huh? I'd recommend that you keep the livestock out of that pasture until the seed has gotten a good hold.
Reply:best to sow when weather starts to warm up in uk mid april to september,not sure of your weather calender,grass seed dosent really grow october to march so you will be wasting your money ,after rainfall you should be ok seed,
I live in Fort Smith, AR. What is the best grass to grow and make my lawn lush and green?
I am in the process of using some herbicide (MSMA) to kill the broadleaf stuff off but am not sure what type of grass seed to put down afterward. The two most common types of seed available at the local stores are Tall Fescue and Bermudagrass. I know there are pros and cons to each, but with the weather staying warmer throughout the fall and winter months around here, I am leaning toward the Bermuda because that would give me just a few months of brown lawn during the cold season and I have read the Fescue is not very drought tolerant. It gets hot and dry here during the Summer. Anyway, whatever feedback I receive will be greatly appreciated and if there are any alternatives I would be glad to hear them. Thanks.
I live in Fort Smith, AR. What is the best grass to grow and make my lawn lush and green?
Arkansas lies in the transition zone. Summers are too hot for the cool season grasses and winters are too cold for the warm season grasses. This makes growing grass in Arkansas more difficult than most other areas of the United States. It also depends on where you live in Arkansas. Fayetteville is too cold for St. Augustinegrass or Centipedegrass - it will suffer damage in the winter. Texarkana is hot and humid enough to make growing Tall Fescue difficult. Zoysiagrass does well throughout most of your state and should warrant your attention. I've had a hybrid Bermudagrass lawn in Phoenix and it was nice, but Bermudagrass can also suffer cold damage in Arkansas. It would be best for you to take a look at the turf selection site put together by the University of Arkansas Division of Ag. They know your climates and they know what grows best. They have even tested specific cultivars for hardiness in Arkansas. Here is their excellent site: http://turf.uark.edu/publications/factsh...
Reply:I'm trying to do the same with my yard and I believe the best contact you have is your local county extension agency for all your soil and grass info.I think you're right about the prolonged warm period ,it would be fine to lay it now ,good luck.
Reply:it depends on a number of different factors, check out this site and you will calculate what type of seed you need.
http://www.outsidepride.com/store/state_...
Reply:St. Augustine would be lush, green and pretty.
daisy
I live in Fort Smith, AR. What is the best grass to grow and make my lawn lush and green?
Arkansas lies in the transition zone. Summers are too hot for the cool season grasses and winters are too cold for the warm season grasses. This makes growing grass in Arkansas more difficult than most other areas of the United States. It also depends on where you live in Arkansas. Fayetteville is too cold for St. Augustinegrass or Centipedegrass - it will suffer damage in the winter. Texarkana is hot and humid enough to make growing Tall Fescue difficult. Zoysiagrass does well throughout most of your state and should warrant your attention. I've had a hybrid Bermudagrass lawn in Phoenix and it was nice, but Bermudagrass can also suffer cold damage in Arkansas. It would be best for you to take a look at the turf selection site put together by the University of Arkansas Division of Ag. They know your climates and they know what grows best. They have even tested specific cultivars for hardiness in Arkansas. Here is their excellent site: http://turf.uark.edu/publications/factsh...
Reply:I'm trying to do the same with my yard and I believe the best contact you have is your local county extension agency for all your soil and grass info.I think you're right about the prolonged warm period ,it would be fine to lay it now ,good luck.
Reply:it depends on a number of different factors, check out this site and you will calculate what type of seed you need.
http://www.outsidepride.com/store/state_...
Reply:St. Augustine would be lush, green and pretty.
daisy
Help! Crabgrass is taking over!!!?
I live in Central Florida...have hoed...have weedeated..I have used Roundup for broadleaf weeds and for weed and grass...I have hoed up half my yard...but cannot get the crabgrass and dollar weed out. I know the dollar weed is there because of the moisture. We have a clay bed about 5' deep, so the yard does not drain well..I thought Roundup would kill anything...but not this stuff....HELP!
Help! Crabgrass is taking over!!!?
Is the crabgrass mixed in with your lawn or is it in your planters? We're in California, but also have clay and have, in the past, been plagued by crabgrass.
My husband and I dug up (entirely) several planters and then covered them with black plastic. The heat under there for several days in a row will kill just about anything. Then we put down landscaping fabric and replanted the beds. We then covered everything with about 4 inches of redwood mulch. It's been about 5 years now and the crabgrass only pops up here and there. We're able to keep on top of it with an hour or so of weeding about twice a month.
If you don't want to dig up everything, you can try just digging up part of the planter, pulling, digging, and spraying the weeds and then put down landscaping fabric around the plantings you want to keep. We tried that in another planter. It wasn't nearly as effective, but was a decent solution.
I have crabgrass still growing under (and through) some ivy geranium. That I haven't attacked yet. For now I just cut it as close to the ground as possible and it doesn't really show through the plants.
Good luck. I know it's a pain in the fanny.
Reply:Walmart does sell a Consentrate just for killing CrabGrass. Look in their Garden Section for Spectricide Crab Grass Killer... It works
Reply:TRY CENIPEED GRASS. IT STAYS LOW TO THE GROUND,
(EASY TO MOW), AND YOU CAN BUY SOME OF THOSE SQUARES WHERE THE CENIPEED GRASS HAS ALREADY
GROWN INTO THE DIRT CUT SOME SQUARES OUT OF IT AND DIG A SHALLOW AREA IN LAWN, PLACE SQUARES IN
SHALLOW AREA, WATER REAL WELL AND THEN JUST WATCH IT GROW... AND ALONG WITH IT GROWING, THE CRAB GRASS WILL DISAPPEAR. IT CHOKES THE CRAB GRASS OUT. MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE CRAB GRASS REAL LOW WHEN DOING THIS...
GOOD LUCK!
ROBIN IN NC
Reply:There are a few things you can use. Check out http://www.1800topsoil.cpom to see if they have someone local who can help you. Good luck!
Reply:Have you tried weed n feed?
Help! Crabgrass is taking over!!!?
Is the crabgrass mixed in with your lawn or is it in your planters? We're in California, but also have clay and have, in the past, been plagued by crabgrass.
My husband and I dug up (entirely) several planters and then covered them with black plastic. The heat under there for several days in a row will kill just about anything. Then we put down landscaping fabric and replanted the beds. We then covered everything with about 4 inches of redwood mulch. It's been about 5 years now and the crabgrass only pops up here and there. We're able to keep on top of it with an hour or so of weeding about twice a month.
If you don't want to dig up everything, you can try just digging up part of the planter, pulling, digging, and spraying the weeds and then put down landscaping fabric around the plantings you want to keep. We tried that in another planter. It wasn't nearly as effective, but was a decent solution.
I have crabgrass still growing under (and through) some ivy geranium. That I haven't attacked yet. For now I just cut it as close to the ground as possible and it doesn't really show through the plants.
Good luck. I know it's a pain in the fanny.
Reply:Walmart does sell a Consentrate just for killing CrabGrass. Look in their Garden Section for Spectricide Crab Grass Killer... It works
Reply:TRY CENIPEED GRASS. IT STAYS LOW TO THE GROUND,
(EASY TO MOW), AND YOU CAN BUY SOME OF THOSE SQUARES WHERE THE CENIPEED GRASS HAS ALREADY
GROWN INTO THE DIRT CUT SOME SQUARES OUT OF IT AND DIG A SHALLOW AREA IN LAWN, PLACE SQUARES IN
SHALLOW AREA, WATER REAL WELL AND THEN JUST WATCH IT GROW... AND ALONG WITH IT GROWING, THE CRAB GRASS WILL DISAPPEAR. IT CHOKES THE CRAB GRASS OUT. MAKE SURE YOU CUT THE CRAB GRASS REAL LOW WHEN DOING THIS...
GOOD LUCK!
ROBIN IN NC
Reply:There are a few things you can use. Check out http://www.1800topsoil.cpom to see if they have someone local who can help you. Good luck!
Reply:Have you tried weed n feed?
I am tired of Scotts!! Ever heard of Trimec and Division?
I think they are too expensive and I think a lot of their products are very "watered down" potencies. (for marketing purposes)
I have just found out that I can buy a product called Trimec that is suppose to be even better and half the price as the Scotts products.
Is it better than 24d and MSMA? I have heard from other landscapers that it works great.
I am trying to kill broadleaf weeds in the lawn and promote the fescue and bermuda grass instead. Instead of spending twice the money on half the potency of Scotts Plus 2 Weed Control and Fertlilizer , I am going to just buy Trimec and spray that on the entire lawn and then wait for a few days and then mow it again.
A week after I am going to put down 13-13-13 fertilizer.
There is my "weed and feed". Good?
I am tired of Scotts!! Ever heard of Trimec and Division?
passionate about week killer, yes i agree Scotts is no good for the price. week and feed is good keep it gooing. Not sure what isa best though.
I have just found out that I can buy a product called Trimec that is suppose to be even better and half the price as the Scotts products.
Is it better than 24d and MSMA? I have heard from other landscapers that it works great.
I am trying to kill broadleaf weeds in the lawn and promote the fescue and bermuda grass instead. Instead of spending twice the money on half the potency of Scotts Plus 2 Weed Control and Fertlilizer , I am going to just buy Trimec and spray that on the entire lawn and then wait for a few days and then mow it again.
A week after I am going to put down 13-13-13 fertilizer.
There is my "weed and feed". Good?
I am tired of Scotts!! Ever heard of Trimec and Division?
passionate about week killer, yes i agree Scotts is no good for the price. week and feed is good keep it gooing. Not sure what isa best though.
Will Trimec kill crabgrass? What are the right temps for application?
I have heard it works great to kill most all broadleaf weeds very nicely, but will it also kill grassy weeds, like crabgrass as well?
anyways, what are the right temps to apply it to the lawn?
It has been getting into the middle 80's for the past two weeks and been nice, but now for the next two weeks it will be getting much cooler, like low 50's for highs and close to freezing at nights!
Should I wait until after to apply??
Will Trimec kill crabgrass? What are the right temps for application?
First, recommending or using a herbicide for the control of crabgrass when that herbicide is not labeled for crabgrass is a federal offense. Trimec is not labeled for the control of crabgrass. That is because Trimec controls broadleaf weeds. Crabgrass is a grassy weed. Please do not try Trimec to control crabgrass.
Bispyribac-sodium (Velocity), dithiopyr (Dimension), ethofumesate (Prograss), fenoxaprop-ethyl (Acclaim Extra) and quinclorac (Drive) are labeled for post-emergence control of crabgrass.
Pre-emergence herbicides that control crabgrass should be applied when the soil temperature is 55 degress for three or more consecutive days. The post-emergence herbicides listed above must be applied shortly after the germination of crabgrass. Here in Illinois that is typically late May to very eary June. Follow the label whenever applying a herbicide. Good luck with your crabgrass problem.
Reply:Crab grass is a pain in the butt. This is because it acts like a weed, but is more like a grass. Trimec probably wont do too good on it, but if you already have it you could try it. Ortho has a crabgrass product but I can't remember if it is a killer or preventer. Still, it may not even work as most post emergent herbicides are really weak. More than likely you will have to deal with it or pull it up this year and then at the beginning of the season next year used Scott's with Halts Crabgrass preventer. If you do this before it comes up along with something like ortho or trimec then you be able to get rid of it. If your grass isn't already green and the crabgrass still hasn't come up then apply right away. The best time to apply is before it even gets a chance to come up. Good luck!
Reply:Trimec is a broad leaf weed killer,,not a grass killer.
Crabgrass is in the Grass family, so trimec won't work.
To kill crab Grass you can use Round-up, but that'll kill the good grasses too.
if you know someone in the Lawn Care business, ask them to get you a product called "Acclaim". Acclaim was designed to kill Crabgrass. Unfortantely your lawn will be "blotchie" (dead spots all over)
Your best bet is to put on a Crabgrass Preventative before the lilacs bloom. When the lilacs bloom it's too late to put on a Crabgrass Preventative.
Also keep in mind, where ever you use a crabgrass preventative, you can't plant regular grass seed. A Crabgrass preventative stops ALL seeds from germinating , not just Crab grass.
anyways, what are the right temps to apply it to the lawn?
It has been getting into the middle 80's for the past two weeks and been nice, but now for the next two weeks it will be getting much cooler, like low 50's for highs and close to freezing at nights!
Should I wait until after to apply??
Will Trimec kill crabgrass? What are the right temps for application?
First, recommending or using a herbicide for the control of crabgrass when that herbicide is not labeled for crabgrass is a federal offense. Trimec is not labeled for the control of crabgrass. That is because Trimec controls broadleaf weeds. Crabgrass is a grassy weed. Please do not try Trimec to control crabgrass.
Bispyribac-sodium (Velocity), dithiopyr (Dimension), ethofumesate (Prograss), fenoxaprop-ethyl (Acclaim Extra) and quinclorac (Drive) are labeled for post-emergence control of crabgrass.
Pre-emergence herbicides that control crabgrass should be applied when the soil temperature is 55 degress for three or more consecutive days. The post-emergence herbicides listed above must be applied shortly after the germination of crabgrass. Here in Illinois that is typically late May to very eary June. Follow the label whenever applying a herbicide. Good luck with your crabgrass problem.
Reply:Crab grass is a pain in the butt. This is because it acts like a weed, but is more like a grass. Trimec probably wont do too good on it, but if you already have it you could try it. Ortho has a crabgrass product but I can't remember if it is a killer or preventer. Still, it may not even work as most post emergent herbicides are really weak. More than likely you will have to deal with it or pull it up this year and then at the beginning of the season next year used Scott's with Halts Crabgrass preventer. If you do this before it comes up along with something like ortho or trimec then you be able to get rid of it. If your grass isn't already green and the crabgrass still hasn't come up then apply right away. The best time to apply is before it even gets a chance to come up. Good luck!
Reply:Trimec is a broad leaf weed killer,,not a grass killer.
Crabgrass is in the Grass family, so trimec won't work.
To kill crab Grass you can use Round-up, but that'll kill the good grasses too.
if you know someone in the Lawn Care business, ask them to get you a product called "Acclaim". Acclaim was designed to kill Crabgrass. Unfortantely your lawn will be "blotchie" (dead spots all over)
Your best bet is to put on a Crabgrass Preventative before the lilacs bloom. When the lilacs bloom it's too late to put on a Crabgrass Preventative.
Also keep in mind, where ever you use a crabgrass preventative, you can't plant regular grass seed. A Crabgrass preventative stops ALL seeds from germinating , not just Crab grass.
Has anybody had any luck with Scotts Plus 2 fertilizer??
I put this down last summer and followed all of the specific instructions and I really did not see much results.
they say it has 24D in there, but I did not see much results. Maybe it is just a light version of it. It turned a few broadleaf weeds slightly brown, but not much more than that.
Has anybody had any luck with Scotts Plus 2 fertilizer??
Fertilizer is fertilizer. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, the three numbers on the bag, are all that matters. As for the weed killer side of scotts plus 2, As long as your yard isn't too big, I recomend walking the lawn with a product like weed b gon, and spot spraying. It's much more effective, and you use a tenth of the product. I usually mow my lawn, pop a cold one and grab my spray bottle. Taking 5 or 10 minutes to walk the lawn lets you get all the weeds, and also spot any other problems ( fungus, dry spots, etc.) before they get too bad.
Reply:It says to not apply when temps in the 80's and water your lawn before application. It worked well 4 me
Reply:Not knowing what variety grass you have I can attest a product called MSMA (found in most Nursery's) Is by far the best for Bermuda type grass. Be sure to follow directions though because too much will definitely burn.
Reply:make sure rain isnt in the forcast for3 days after application,then water as instructed.if you have done so perhaps you didnt use enough in said area when spreading it
gary
they say it has 24D in there, but I did not see much results. Maybe it is just a light version of it. It turned a few broadleaf weeds slightly brown, but not much more than that.
Has anybody had any luck with Scotts Plus 2 fertilizer??
Fertilizer is fertilizer. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, the three numbers on the bag, are all that matters. As for the weed killer side of scotts plus 2, As long as your yard isn't too big, I recomend walking the lawn with a product like weed b gon, and spot spraying. It's much more effective, and you use a tenth of the product. I usually mow my lawn, pop a cold one and grab my spray bottle. Taking 5 or 10 minutes to walk the lawn lets you get all the weeds, and also spot any other problems ( fungus, dry spots, etc.) before they get too bad.
Reply:It says to not apply when temps in the 80's and water your lawn before application. It worked well 4 me
Reply:Not knowing what variety grass you have I can attest a product called MSMA (found in most Nursery's) Is by far the best for Bermuda type grass. Be sure to follow directions though because too much will definitely burn.
Reply:make sure rain isnt in the forcast for3 days after application,then water as instructed.if you have done so perhaps you didnt use enough in said area when spreading it
gary
Monday, April 27, 2009
What temperatures are required to sucessfully use herbicides to kill grass and broadleaf weeds?
I am in Tennessee and I had a guy from a company called Chemlawn today tell me that they were spraying for broadleaf weeds as well as applying pre-emergent and fertilizer to their customer's lawns.
I was surprised especially considering that it is not even yet middle February and they are already using post emergent herbicides on the lawn.
Is it really possible to do this when the temperatures are still getting close to freezing at night?
Thanks for your answers!
What temperatures are required to sucessfully use herbicides to kill grass and broadleaf weeds?
The pre-emergent is for crabgrass. What they do is two half rate applications, so it has a longer residual effect. At the same time they are putting out post emergent for broadleaf weeds, because henbit and other weeds will be popping up after all the rain you have had. They will put out the next application in about 6 or 7 weeks.
The fertilizer is potassium for root development. During the cooler part of the season that is what you work on. Develop a healthy root system and the top growth will show it.
Chemlawn is a major company (Fortune 500) and would not be doing something to lawns they shouldn't be doing. Can you imagine they would put out these products on a few thousand lawns, just to have to replace the lawns?
I am from the Birmingham area. They know what they are doing. :)
One of the first things you will think is they have 'killed your grass' because weeds will be dying and you will think it is grass. then as spring rolls around your real grass will become thicker and greener and you will see the difference. One little know fact is that weeds grow faster than grass.
Hope this helps. :)
Reply:Rule is /Do all your killing at Spring time/when the weeds are young/no prob,rest O Season.
Reply:I just applied a weed killer that said the ideal temperature and conditions is greater than 60 degrees F and sunny. It's been cool around here (50+ during the day and low 40s at night) and it took about a week for the weed killer to take effect. I don't know if that was a temperature thing or what. Usually, it takes effect within 24 hours.
It's my experience that broadleaf weed killers for lawns don't immediately kill the weeds. It just stops them from growing. They then turn red and eventually die a few weeks later.
I would think a pre-emergent is fine any time, as long as the ground isn't frozen. You're essentially just sterilizing the seeds.
Reply:That surprises me too. Broadleaf herbicides work best when the plant is actively growing.
the preemergent might okay in your area right now. Around here (mid ohio) we recommend mid-March. You want it present BEFORE the seeds germinate, and if your temps are warming up now - you could have weed seeds germinating in the next few weeks.
I was surprised especially considering that it is not even yet middle February and they are already using post emergent herbicides on the lawn.
Is it really possible to do this when the temperatures are still getting close to freezing at night?
Thanks for your answers!
What temperatures are required to sucessfully use herbicides to kill grass and broadleaf weeds?
The pre-emergent is for crabgrass. What they do is two half rate applications, so it has a longer residual effect. At the same time they are putting out post emergent for broadleaf weeds, because henbit and other weeds will be popping up after all the rain you have had. They will put out the next application in about 6 or 7 weeks.
The fertilizer is potassium for root development. During the cooler part of the season that is what you work on. Develop a healthy root system and the top growth will show it.
Chemlawn is a major company (Fortune 500) and would not be doing something to lawns they shouldn't be doing. Can you imagine they would put out these products on a few thousand lawns, just to have to replace the lawns?
I am from the Birmingham area. They know what they are doing. :)
One of the first things you will think is they have 'killed your grass' because weeds will be dying and you will think it is grass. then as spring rolls around your real grass will become thicker and greener and you will see the difference. One little know fact is that weeds grow faster than grass.
Hope this helps. :)
Reply:Rule is /Do all your killing at Spring time/when the weeds are young/no prob,rest O Season.
Reply:I just applied a weed killer that said the ideal temperature and conditions is greater than 60 degrees F and sunny. It's been cool around here (50+ during the day and low 40s at night) and it took about a week for the weed killer to take effect. I don't know if that was a temperature thing or what. Usually, it takes effect within 24 hours.
It's my experience that broadleaf weed killers for lawns don't immediately kill the weeds. It just stops them from growing. They then turn red and eventually die a few weeks later.
I would think a pre-emergent is fine any time, as long as the ground isn't frozen. You're essentially just sterilizing the seeds.
Reply:That surprises me too. Broadleaf herbicides work best when the plant is actively growing.
the preemergent might okay in your area right now. Around here (mid ohio) we recommend mid-March. You want it present BEFORE the seeds germinate, and if your temps are warming up now - you could have weed seeds germinating in the next few weeks.
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